Browse the A–Z index below, or use the original Japanese-reading groups. Definitions retain their original order.
60 terms
A–Z index — all 60 terms
If you cannot find a term, try a shorter search.
A group (Japanese reading)
Accord
Derived from the musical term for a chord: when two or more Notes work well together, creating a scent that feels harmonious, the result is called an accord.
The most difficult part of perfumery is turning an accord into a perfume without losing the identity of the original idea.
Sonia Constant
#accord
Atomizer
Historically, the atomizer was developed in 1887 by a physician, Dr. Thomas DeVilbiss, to spray medicine into the back of his patients’ throats. Perfume atomizer production is said to have begun after his son joined the company in 1905.
In today’s perfume industry, the term refers to a refillable perfume bottle that makes perfume easier to use, carry and apply wherever you are.
There are several types, including sprays and roll-ons.
#atomizer
Absolute
Distillation or solvent extraction yields a Concrete, which is refined by removing fats and waxes with alcohol.
#absolute
Amber
Resins such as Labdanum, Benzoin, together with vanillin (or natural vanilla), form a sweet, warm Composition.
#amber
Enfleurage (Cold and Hot)
A traditional extraction method using pork or beef fat to absorb the fragrant molecules released by flowers. It first produces a fat known as a “pomade”, containing Aroma Compounds.
Dissolving this pomade in cool alcohol transfers the fragrance into the alcohol; evaporating the alcohol then yields the fragrant oil. This is known as cold enfleurage (French: L’enfleurage à froid). It has been used especially for delicate flowers that cannot undergo steam distillation.
Conversely, extracting fragrance with heat is known as hot enfleurage (French: L’enfleurage à chaud). The fat is heated until liquid, then flowers are added until it is saturated with fragrant compounds.
Extract
A general term for something obtained through extraction.
#extract
Essence (Essential Oil)
Something obtained from natural materials by distillation or enfleurage. An oil consisting entirely of natural aromatic material is called an essential oil.
#essence #essential oil
Eau de Cologne
Literally “water of Cologne,” the German city. Its purpose is to create an intensely refreshing sensation for a short time. One anecdote holds that Napoleon used more than 30 liters of early eau de cologne a week, and even asked whether any was available when he was sent into exile.
Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Parfum, Fragrance concentration — see these related entries.
#eau de cologne
Eau de Toilette
Literally “toilet water,” with toilette meaning the act of grooming. Recommended when you want to refresh yourself or convey a feeling of cleanliness.
Eau de Cologne, Eau de Parfum, Parfum, Fragrance concentration — see these related entries.
#eau de toilette
Eau de Parfum
Compared with cologne and eau de toilette, it offers richer Sillage, allowing you to wear fragrance elegantly.
Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Parfum, Fragrance concentration — see these related entries.
#eau de parfum
Overdose
An overdose means using an unusually large amount of a particular scent. It is generally a challenging approach that often gives a perfume a distinctive character, and is frequently used in Niche Fragrance.
It is all about balance. Nothing is overdosed.
Dominique Ropion
#overdose
Oriental
Oriental notes are characterized by ingredients historically produced in the East and brought to Europe: Vanilla, Amber Notes, Patchouli, Sandalwood, resins (Myrrh, Labdanum, Benzoin and others), Musk and spices. In particular, they express European fantasies and images of the East, especially India and Arabia, in scents that feel mysterious and sensual, exotic and warm.
Oriental perfumes are to perfumery what the Baroque is to architecture.
Frédéric Malle
#oriental
Organ
Another term borrowed from music. Also called a “perfumer’s organ” or “perfume organ”, it is a stand on which a perfumer’s raw materials are arranged for convenient use. The name comes from its resemblance to a pipe organ.
Usually custom-made, its arrangement, shape, size and layout vary from perfumer to perfumer.
#perfumer’s organ #perfume organ
Olfactory Family
Fragrance family is another name for a broad classification of perfumes based on similar scent characteristics or shared key ingredients. Families include citrus and floral, each with its own distinctive qualities. Different proposed classification systems vary.
#olfactive family #fragrance family
Ka group (Japanese reading)
Olfactory Pyramid
Also called a perfume pyramid, it arranges fragrance ingredients (Notes) by their Evaporation Rate into Top Notes, Middle Notes, Base Notes, presenting them clearly as a pyramid, with the most volatile top notes at its tip and the longest-lasting base notes at the bottom. The great Jean Carles developed it to explain his perfumes to people outside the industry.
The best-known pyramid uses these three levels, but there are also eight-level pyramids based on olfactory families.
Most importantly, however, most perfumes are not made according to the pyramid description, and the scents (Notes) listed at each level represent only one aspect of the fragrance. Perfumes made according to this pyramid belong to the period from the 1930s to the 1970s. It is nevertheless widely used because it can help people understand a fragrance.
In musical terms, might these be the first, second and third movements of a symphony? When meeting someone, top notes might be the first impression, middle notes their personality, and base notes the convictions deep in their heart.
Miya Shinma
#olfactory pyramid #perfume pyramid
Evaporation Rate
The speed at which fragrance evaporates from the surface of the skin. Being volatile means having a high tendency to spread into the surrounding air; the lower the boiling point, the greater the volatility.
#evaporation rate #volatility
Synesthesia
Synesthesia refers to experiencing more than one sense in response to a single stimulus, an experience often associated with heightened artistic sensitivity. It is said to occur in about 4% of people worldwide.
In perfumery, some people experience colors when they smell a fragrance. This is not a vague impression that a scent feels green, but the vivid experience of actually seeing green.
For example, Frédéric Malle, Christine Nagel, Bruno Jovanovic, Calice Becker, Thierry Wasser have spoken about their synesthesia. Francis Kurkdjian experiences “hearing sounds when smelling scents”.
Green notes sound high-pitched to me. Top Notes usually sound very fast, like a crystal glass breaking. Vanilla sounds low-pitched. And Aldehydes feel like a vibration.
Francis Kurkdjian
#synesthesia
Gourmand
Gourmand scents combine the synthetic ingredient Ethyl Maltol in an Overdose with natural, chocolate-like Patchouli to create delicious-smelling fragrances reminiscent of childhood sweets.
#gourmand
Aroma Compounds
The scented components present in the odor released by a material. Their balance explains why flowers of the same kind can smell different depending on the variety or where they are grown. For example, Rose contains more than 500 aroma compounds.
#aroma compounds
Synthetic Ingredients
1. Aromatic materials produced through chemical synthesis
2. Isolates separated from natural ingredients (also considered natural ingredients overseas)
Also referred to as chemicals, synthetic ingredients are said to have elevated scent into the art of perfumery. The first perfume in history to use synthetic ingredients was Fougère Royale (1882, Houbigant, Paul Parquet).
They generally smell attractive when diluted, but can smell coarse and vulgar if too much is used.
Roja Dove
Synthetic ingredients are useful for creating illusions, effects and abstract impressions.
Jean-Claude Ellena
#artificial ingredients #man-made ingredients #synthetic #chemical
Concrete
A waxy substance obtained mainly from fresh flowers through solvent extraction. Extracts from dried plant materials, such as seeds or gum resins, are called resinoids.
#concrete #resinoid #resin
Combining
Combining different fragrances and wearing them together is called Combining. The term is used notably by Jo Malone, whereas Guerlain uses layering or mixology.
#combining #layering #mixology
Composition
Used in phrases such as “fragrance composition,” it refers to the constituent elements or ingredients.
#composition
Sa group (Japanese reading)
Signature Scent
Also called a signature perfume or signature fragrance, it is a scent or perfume that serves as your personal signature.
A signature scent is a perfume that truly defines you. In other words, a fragrance that says exactly what you want to express.
Creed’s official website
I want to free women from the marketing command that they should wear one signature perfume or find a fragrance for life. Such a perfume does not exist today.In this new era, women have won many battles. That is why I create a fragrance wardrobe for them. My brand’s perfumes are a collection of scents that accompany them, completely freely, wherever and whenever they are.
Francis Kurkdjian
#signature scent #signature perfume #signature fragrance
Senior Perfumer
A junior perfumer who blossoms and has their contribution recognized by the company can earn the position of senior perfumer. The role calls not only for technical perfumery skills, but also for developing others.
#senior perfumer
Chypre
A fragrance family originating with Chypre (1917, Coty), named after the Mediterranean island of Cyprus. It begins with intense Citrus Notes, followed by Floral Absolutes, and finally the all-important sweet depth of Labdanum and woody notes.
A chypre perfume does not reveal its entire scent at the first impression. Little by little, it reveals its secrets to the wearer.
Dorothée Piot
#chypre
Sillage
Originally, sillage means the white wake left by a ship. In perfumery, it is the “trail of scent” left behind as a person passes.
#sillage
Juice
The liquid inside the bottle: the perfume itself.
#juice
Junior Perfumer
A perfumer at the beginning of their career. They compose fragrances as an assistant to a Master Perfumer and learn a range of techniques, studying under a Senior Perfumer for at least around seven years.
#junior perfumer #trainee
Single Note
A fragrance built around one note. A single note can contain as many as 200 different aromatic components, so even a single-note fragrance can smell complex.
#single note
Single Floral
A perfume focused on a single flower. Also called monofloral or soliflore.
#single floral #soli flora
Spice
Spices used in perfume fall broadly into two categories: hot spices and cold spices.
hot spices are spices that feel envelopingly warm, such as pepper, Clove, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Anise and others.
cold spices are spices that feel cool or refreshing, such as Saffron, Cardamom, ginger, Coriander, Caraway and others.
Incidentally, Cumin is used to add a slightly animalic note.
#hot spice #cold spice
In-House Perfumer
An in-house perfumer is a perfumer whose abilities have been recognized and who is entrusted by a brand to take a central role in creating its perfumes.
Some brands entrust all composition to their in-house perfumer, while others also commission external perfumers. Depending on their contract, an in-house perfumer may also create fragrances for other brands.
Guerlain…Thierry Wasser
Chanel…Olivier Polge
Hermès…Christine Nagel
Cartier…Mathilde Laurent
Dior…Francis Kurkdjian
Louis Vuitton…Jacques Cavallier
Prada…Daniela Andrier
Annick Goutal…Isabelle Doyen
Caron…William Fraysse
Jean Patou…Thomas Fontaine
and others
For brands such as Chanel, Hermès, Dior and Guerlain, maintaining the formulas of historic masterpieces is also part of the in-house perfumer’s work, carrying considerable responsibility.
Part of my everyday work for Chanel is maintaining N°5. For much of the year, I work to secure the materials needed to preserve its quality: citrus at the beginning of the year, then Orange Blossom, in May Rose, in September Jasmine, and several times during the year Ylang-Ylang. A profession rooted in history demands constant vigilance.
Olivier Polge
#in-house perfumer
Ta group (Japanese reading)
Isolates
Also called natural isolates, these are individual aroma molecules separated from natural aromatic materials. A scent generally consists of multiple aroma molecules; rose, for example, contains more than 400. Well-known examples include Hedione and muscone.
The discovery of a single new isolate could change the course of the perfume industry entirely.
Roja Dove
It is not unusual for different raw materials to contain the same molecule. This means that a particular scent can be extracted from a material that is easy and inexpensive to grow, producing a replica that subtly resembles an expensive or hard-to-obtain scent. Such scents can often be harsh because an isolate is only part of the whole: the result is a broad approximation lacking the delicate nuances found in the complete oil.
Roja Dove
#isolate
Compounded Ingredients
Lily of the Valley and other scents are recreated using ingredients made to imitate natural materials whose essential oils cannot be used.
#aroma compound
Natural Ingredients
Fragrance ingredients obtained from natural materials, divided into plant-derived ingredients and animal-derived ingredients. Since naturally obtained animal ingredients are rarely used today, “natural ingredients” generally means materials extracted from plants.
#natural ingredients
Top Notes
Top notes, also called head notes, are most noticeable during the first few minutes.
Middle Notes, Base Notes — see these related entries.
#top note #head note
Na group (Japanese reading)
Niche Fragrance
“Niche” means “a small, specialized area catering to particular needs or a gap in the market”, and is not exclusive to perfume. The fragrance houses that have grown in number over the past 20 years are far smaller than mainstream brands. Many launch in the niche market that treats perfume as art, so most are considered niche brands.
Related term: Fragrance House
#niche fragrance #niche perfume
Notes
Borrowed from music, the term refers to a musical note. Just as music combines the notes of a scale, perfumery builds fragrances by combining notes made from multiple aromatic ingredients.
#note
Ha group (Japanese reading)
Perfumer
A creator of perfumes, also known in French as a nez, meaning “nose.” Although perfumer is the usual term, nez is often used for particularly outstanding perfumers.
In Japanese, the word chōkōshi can refer both to a perfume creator and to someone who creates flavors (a flavorist), so it is important to distinguish the two.
#perfumer #nez #nose
Parfum
Often misunderstood as being strong, parfum is not actually strong but exceptionally soft and dignified. It can be worn for formal occasions and parties.
Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Fragrance concentration — see these related entries.
#perfume #parfum
Fine Fragrance
The term fine fragrance distinguishes perfume itself from other scented products, such as toiletries, detergents and fabric softeners.
Fine-fragrance perfumers receive attention because of their connection with fashion, but in fact, when it comes to manipulating scent, they cannot match toiletry perfumers, who work like skilled poker players (toiletries require technical skill to paint a beautiful world over unpleasant-smelling chemicals).
Thierry Wasser
#fine fragrance
Fragrance Concentration
The proportion of fragrant materials dissolved in alcohol. Four broad categories are distinguished by concentration.Low concentration←Eau de Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, Parfum→High concentration
These words do not simply indicate differences in concentration; they describe different forms of perfume expression.
#perfume concentration #ratio of alcohol
Fougère
This family began with Houbigant‘s Fougère Royale (Paul Parquet), released in 1882. Fougère is French for “fern-like.” It is mainly composed of herbal materials such as Oakmoss, Lavender, Geranium, combined with Coumarin (a molecule found in Tonka Bean, with a scent reminiscent of hay or sakura mochi). The way geranium appears in the top notes is said to be decisive for a fougère.
#fougere
Flacon
From the Latin flasco, flacon means a small, decorative bottle with a stopper. It generally refers to a perfume bottle.
#flacon
Map of France
Two French cities inevitably come up when studying perfume: the cities of fragrance, Paris and Grasse.
They lie almost at opposite ends of the country: Paris is inland, while Grasse is on the Mediterranean side.
Grasse produces many aromatic materials and is also known as the headquarters of Robertet.
The region containing Grasse is called Provence, and its Mediterranean coastline is known as the Côte d’Azur, or the French Riviera in English.
#Paris #Grasse #Provence #Côte d’Azur #French Riviera
François Coty Award
Named after François Coty, the legendary figure who helped lay the foundations of modern perfumery, this award honors perfumers for their achievements and contributions to the industry.
Past recipients
Past recipients include the following.
2000: Jean Guichard
2001: Francis Kurkdjian
2002: Maurice Roucel
2003: Alberto Morillas
2004: Jacques Cavallier
2005: Sophie Labbé
2006: Lorenzo Villoresi
2007: Christine Nagel
2008: Dominique Ropion
2018: Émilie Coppermann
2019: Shyamala Maisondieu
2021: Fabrice Pellegrin&Christopher Sheldrake
#francois coty award
Flavor / Flavorist
The world of scent is broadly divided into two areas: fragrance (perfume) and flavor. Flavors are aromatic materials widely used in food and drink, expanding their possibilities.
With the development of modern technology, flavors came to be used even in foods and drinks that would not otherwise have existed, broadening the pleasures of eating and drinking. In Japan, flavor development gained momentum after the Food Sanitation Act came into force in 1947. Orange-flavored soft drinks, now commonplace, began to be sold around 1951.
Flavors are created by flavorists. Like perfumers, they are called chōkōshi in Japanese, and training courses are offered at perfumery schools. Although flavor developed later than fragrance, its industry spans an even wider range of applications.
#flavor #flavorist
Blotter
Scent paper, blotter in English, mouillette in French; also known as a scent strip or smelling strip. The paper itself is odorless. Many other papers have their own odor and interfere with evaluating a perfume accurately, so they are best avoided as substitutes.
#blotter #mouillette #scent strip #smelling-strip
Floral Bouquet
A fragrance combining the scents of several flowers like a bouquet. It creates a more feminine impression.
Opposite term: Single Floral
#floral bouquet
Ma group (Japanese reading)
Master Perfumer
Master perfumer is an honorary title sometimes given to perfumers who create outstanding fragrances or make significant contributions to the industry. It is usually awarded by the fragrance company employing the perfumer. Only a small number hold this highly prestigious title. Since it emerged only in recent decades, most perfumers of earlier generations did not receive it.
Examples from three major companies are listed below.
- Givaudan→Jean Martin, Jean Guichard, Nathalie Feisthauer, Daniela Andrier, Calice Becker, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivier Gillotin and others
- IFF (currently eight) →Carlos Benaïm (2013), Dominique Ropion (2018), Francisco Marano (2018), Stephen Nicoll (2018), Anne Flipo (Anne Flipo, 2019), Franc Schiet (2020), Shoji Kumasaka (2020), Drik Lauven (2021)
- Firmenich→Annie Buzantian (1988), Alberto Morillas (Alberto Morillas, 1998), Adilson Rato, Olivier Cresp (Olivier Cresp, 2006), Harry Fremont, Honorine Blanc (Honorine Blanc, 2013), Johannes Feser (2013), Martin Koh (2013), Nathalie Lorson (Nathalie Lorson, 2016), Tony Reichert (2016), Gary Marr
A master perfumer embodies a highly accomplished artistic craft in perfumery and helps shape the future of the fragrance industry.
From Firmenich
#master perfumer
Maceration
A French term meaning “steeping”, often used in winemaking. In perfumery, it is also considered an especially important step in determining quality: a matured fragrance oil (see Maturation) is mixed with alcohol and allowed to blend for several weeks or months until the fragrance is homogeneous.
Brands that explicitly describe using maceration include Amouage, Frédéric Malle, FUEGUIA1833, Le Labo and others.
Maturation and maceration are often overlooked, but they are very important processes, particularly for creations containing large quantities of natural ingredients.
Cécile Zarokian
#maceration
Maturation
The process of aging a blend of aromatic ingredients before mixing it with a base such as alcohol. At least two to three weeks are considered necessary for the formula to harmonize.
The maturation and maceration process is almost as important as my creation itself. I work on different projects at the same time, and taking a little time helps me focus more clearly.
Bertrand Duchaufour
#maturation
Middle Notes
The part of a fragrance that develops over two to four hours after the top notes. It is the part the perfumer most wants to express, and is therefore also known as the heart notes.
Top Notes, Base Notes — see these related entries.
#middle note #heart note
Mute Flowers
Silent flowers is another name for flowers from which little or no fragrant material can be extracted.Lily of the Valley, Honeysuckle, Gardenia, sweet pea, lily, Violet, Carnation, Lilac and others. Their scents are generally reconstructed by combining other natural and synthetic ingredients.
#mute flower #silent flower
Mainstream
Mainstream means the dominant current and is almost synonymous with fragrances from fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior, Bvlgari, Gucci: fashion-brand fragrances.Designer fragrances is another term. These brands devote large budgets to marketing strategies such as advertising, promotion and market research. Perfumers must express the brand, or its director’s vision, within limited budgets and time.Creating outstanding perfume within these constraints truly tests a perfumer’s abilities.
Have you ever wondered why designer fragrances all seem to smell the same? They target the same groups, which is why they end up smelling similar.
The perfumer’s role is to create a fragrance that appeals to a broad public, for the largest possible international market. Of course, it is not an easy job, but neither is it creative nor original.
Frédéric Malle
#mainstream #fashion fragrance #designers fragrance
Fragrance House
Maison is French for house; these brands are also called fragrance houses. They are specialist perfume brands whose principal focus is fragrance. They place particular emphasis on creation, and many devote money and time to their perfumes without stinting, rather than advertising or market research.
#maison fragrance
Mentor
A mentor is a guide, adviser or teacher. In perfumery, the word often refers to a teacher who has had a major influence on someone. Looking at a perfumer’s mentors can offer a glimpse of how their approach to composition was shaped.
#mentor
Musk
Musk can be animal-derived, plant-derived or synthetic. In each case, it helps balance a composition while adding a little sensuality and warmth. It also acts as an excellent binding element and is used to lower the evaporation rate, extending a fragrance’s longevity. → For details, see here
#musk #musc
Ra group (Japanese reading)
Base Notes
The part of a fragrance that lasts throughout the day. Its longevity depends on the quality of the materials used and whether ingredients that prolong wear are included. Base Notes or Drydown are alternative names.
#last note #base note #dry down