Ingredient Guide
Coumarin is a major component of tonka bean, and its scent is described as warm and almond-like, hay-like, or reminiscent of sakuramochi, a Japanese cherry-leaf rice cake.
The description “like sakuramochi” is particular to Japan, but why does it smell that way? The cherry leaves used for sakuramochi naturally contain coumarin and coumaric-acid conjugates (the blossoms contain small amounts). When the leaves are salt-pickled, or crushed, the coumaric-acid conjugates react with enzymes in the leaves, producing coumarin and strengthening the scent. This is what gives sakuramochi wrapped in salt-pickled cherry leaves its distinctive aroma, and why smelling coumarin brings sakuramochi to mind.
Another plant rich in coumarin is bison grass, named because bison like to eat it. Vodka made with this grass is called Żubrówka (in Japanese), and its aroma feels almost like sakuramochi turned into an alcoholic drink.
William Perkin succeeded in synthesizing coumarin in 1868. In 1882, Houbigant introduced a perfume called Fougère Royale using this synthetic coumarin, marking the emergence of modern perfumery combining synthetic and natural fragrance materials.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Coumarin is an aroma compound also found in nature, in plants such as tonka bean and woodruff. Its sweet character recalls cut hay, almonds, and a faint trace of vanilla, giving perfume soft powderiness and warmth. Fragrance materials include coumarin as a single compound, natural extracts such as tonka bean, and reconstruction blends that create a similar scent by combining nuances of tobacco, fruit, wood, and hay. It adds shades of dry grass to sweetness and gives a composed foundation to a fragrance.
Choosing Coumarin Fragrances
Coumarin’s sweetness combines the softness of vanilla or almond with the dry scent of hay.
- Dry grassy sweetness: Tonka and hay notes suit those who prefer grass or tobacco scents to confectionery sweetness.
- Herbal freshness: Lavender-based fougères move from cool freshness to a warm finish.
- Calm woody notes: Moss and woody notes add a dry wood scent alongside the sweetness.
Fragrances Featuring Coumarin
Fougère Royale Eau de Parfum (Houbigant)
A modern reinterpretation of the historic fragrance discussed above. Lavender and herbs mingle with moss, patchouli, and the sweetness of tonka. Fresh herbs and hay-like sweetness are its defining features.
Jicky Eau de Parfum (Guerlain)
A fougère fragrance containing coumarin. Cool lavender and citrus are paired with the sweet warmth of wood and vanilla.
From Coumarin to Your Next Fragrance
Once you have a sense of the scents you enjoy, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, search in the “Favorite notes” field, and select an option from the suggestions shown. Choose “Next” to continue. You can start with notes even if you do not yet have a favorite perfume.
