Ingredient Guide
Clove, also called chōji in Japanese, is harvested when the green flower buds of the clove tree begin to turn reddish; extracts are also obtained from its twigs and flower stalks. Its Chinese name, written with characters meaning a small nail, comes from the rusty-nail shape of the dried buds.
The clove tree is a long-lived plant that continues producing buds for nearly 70 years. The buds are harvested before flowering to prevent them from drying out in sunlight.
Indonesia accounts for 75% of production. Because eugenol makes up most of its aromatic composition, clove has a spicy scent similar to carnation. Its fragrance is powerful and warm, with a spicy sweetness as well.
In oriental-style perfumes, eugenol plays an important role in the mellis accord. It is often used in classic oriental fragrances.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural clove bud oil is an essential oil distilled from the flower buds. Its warm spice is layered with powdery, woody, sweet, smoky, and medicinally pungent facets, and it contains multiple constituents, including eugenol. Dihydroeugenol, by contrast, is a separate synthetic molecule with a drier, fresher character than eugenol; it gives the top notes a strong spicy bite while enhancing floral scents. The complex warmth of the natural essential oil and the crisp impact of the single molecule serve different purposes, so even within a “clove-like” character, the results are not the same.
Choosing Clove Fragrances
Clove’s warm spiciness takes on a different character when paired with sweet resins and flowers or with green herbs.
- Warm sweetness: Cinnamon and resins wrap the spice in sweetness.
- Crisp spice: Green notes and herbs suit those who prefer leafy freshness and a spicy bite to sweetness.
- Floral pairings: A spicy, carnation-like floral scent is another of clove’s attractions.
Fragrances Featuring Clove
L’Eau Eau de Toilette (Diptyque)
An eau de toilette combining clove and cinnamon with flowers and woods. Warm, sweet spices mingle with the floral and woody notes.
Coriander (D.S. & Durga)
Clove stem is paired with coriander, geranium, clary sage, and other notes. Unlike the warm sweetness of L’Eau, this fragrance centers on green leaves and cool spices.
From Clove to Your Next Fragrance
Once you have a sense of the scents you enjoy, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, search in the “Favorite notes” field, and select an option from the suggestions shown. Choose “Next” to continue. You can start with notes even if you do not yet have a favorite perfume.
