Ingredient Guide
The word aldehyde means alcohol with hydrogen removed (“de”). Aldehydes are compounds containing -CHO; basically, carbon atoms form a chain attached to this -CHO group.
The carbon and oxygen atoms are joined by a double bond, forming what is called a carbonyl group. When one hydrogen atom is bonded to it, the compound is called an aldehyde; when two hydrocarbon groups are bonded to it, it is called a ketone.
The scent of aldehydes varies with their structure and concentration, and some with eight or fewer carbon atoms are used as fragrance ingredients. For example, aldehyde C8 (octanal) is used in floral and citrus top notes. It is said that aldehydes with even numbers of carbon atoms (10 and 12) smell of mandarin orange, while those with odd numbers (7, 9, and 11) smell of sooty candles and give other ingredients sparkle and a lively impression.
Incidentally, aldehydes with higher carbon counts have a soapy facet and are often used in soap-like fragrances.
There are several accounts of the first perfume to use aldehydes, including Rêve D’Or in 1889 (perfumer: Pierre Armingeat), Après l’Ondée (Guerlain) in 1906, and Le Fruit Défendu (Rosine) in 1913.
Aldehydes were used in perfumes before Chanel N°5: Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs (1912), for example, used aldehyde C12 MNA. Created by Ernest Beaux in 1921, N°5 is a landmark fragrance that makes bold use of aldehydes.
One easily confused material is called Aldehyde C14. It is not actually an aldehyde, but a substance known as a lactone. See below for details.
What Do They Smell Like in Perfume?
In perfumery, “aldehydes” do not denote one scent, but a broad group encompassing diverse molecules and materials. The synthetic molecule ALDEHYDE MNA combines fresh, clean ozone and citrus with shades of amber and incense, brightening the top and heart notes. MANDARIN ALDEHYDE gives the opening a strong mandarin character. LEMON TETRAROME, on the other hand, is a product concentrating the aldehyde fraction of a natural lemon extract, so both its origin and its olfactory character differ.
How to Choose Aldehyde Fragrances
Aldehydic perfumes can bring sparkle to a bouquet or evoke the clean scent of soap and freshly washed fabric. N°5 is closer to the first, while the linen-inspired Blanche follows the second.
Comparing Aldehyde Fragrances
N°5 Eau de Parfum (Chanel)
A bouquet of rose and jasmine is at the center. Citrus and aldehydes add brightness, leading into the sweetness of Bourbon vanilla. Aldehydes bring out the richness of the flowers.
Blanche Eau de Parfum (Byredo)
Freshly washed sheets and clothes are the inspiration. Aldehydes and rose are combined with peony, violet, musk and sandalwood. Its idea of cleanliness differs from the floral bouquet at the heart of N°5.
Find Your Next Fragrance
To explore more perfumes, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, then search in the “Favorite notes” field. Select a note you like from the results and press “Next” to continue. You can start with notes even if you do not yet have a favorite perfume.
References
• Philip Kraft, Christine Ledard, and Philip Goutell, “From Rallet Nº1 to Chanel Nº5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel Nº1.” Perfumer & Flavorist, vol. 32, October 2007, pp. 36–38.
• CHANEL, “N°5 Eau de Toilette Spray” (the creation of N°5 and its use of aldehydes).
