Ingredient Guide
The moss growing on the trunks and branches of oak trees native to central and southern Europe is called oakmoss. More precisely, it is a lichen called tsunomatagoke in Japanese, growing on oak trees in the Fagaceae family. In other words, it is not actually a plant, but a combination of a fungus and an alga.
It is extracted mainly using organic solvents. Its scent is earthy, animalic, and leathery.
It is an indispensable material in fougère notes and chypre notes, but because it contains substances that can cause allergies, its use was restricted by IFRA rules in 2009. As a result, it is said that the scents of chypre perfumes, a family containing many classics, changed across the board. There is also a synthetic substitute called Crystal Moss from which these allergens have been removed.
I particularly love the scent of oakmoss. What I have recently noticed is that it resembles the faint, wafting scent of a woman’s genitals.
Jean-Claude Ellena
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural oakmoss absolute is a fragrance material obtained from the lichen Evernia prunastri, evoking a dark, damp forest. Behind a faint fruitiness are complex shades of moss, wood, balsam, leather, earth, smoke, and salt air, giving perfume a deep sense of nature and a quiet, lingering trail. Its distinctive character lies in the coexistence of brightness and the darkness of damp soil, dry leather and seaside air within a single material. Natural extracts are subject to restrictions on atranol-related substances, and manufacturers also supply grades that meet IFRA standards.
Choosing a fragrance with oakmoss
Oakmoss combines green freshness with darker, earthy and leathery depth. Citrus and resins bring out very different impressions.
- Bright greens: Bergamot or petitgrain lets you enjoy moss alongside fresh citrus and leaves.
- Forest depth: Cedar, patchouli or resins may appeal if you enjoy the calm of earthy woods.
- Leather and smoke: Leather or incense gives green scents a darker aspect.
Two fragrances featuring oakmoss
Moss Expressive (Commodity)
Bergamot leads to petitgrain and oakmoss, with orange blossom and cedar. This green fragrance wraps earthy moss in bright citrus and leaves.
Memoir Woman (Amouage)
Oakmoss is layered with leather, styrax and labdanum, as well as flowers, spices and frankincense. Deep layers of leather, resin and incense contrast with the fresh greenness of Moss Expressive.
Find your next fragrance
In Fragrance Finder, choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, then look for notes you enjoy under “Favorite notes”. Select from the available suggestions and press “Next”.
