Anise, also known in Japanese as seiyō-uikyō (“Western fennel”), belongs to the Apiaceae family. Its seed-like fruits are called anise fruits (aniseed).
Star anise, meanwhile, is not botanically related; it is a tall evergreen tree in the genus Illicium. It is also called dai-uikyō (“greater fennel”) in Japanese, and its star-shaped fruit has eight points, hence the name hakkaku (“eight corners”).
These two have very similar aromas and flavors: powerful, sweet, and warm.
Perfumer Annick Ménardo is known as the queen of anise notes, and has used anise in many perfumes for various brands. Her first anise-centered fragrance was Lolita Lempicka (1997).
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
In perfume, anise has a clearly defined scent with a sweetness reminiscent of licorice candy and a cool, refreshing herbal quality. Anise (Pimpinella anisum), used as a perfumery material, is a different plant from star anise (Illicium verum). Trans-anethole plays the central role in the scent of anise essential oil. Anethole is also supplied as a synthetic fragrance material, giving a clear expression to sweet, refreshing anise notes. Plant-derived essential oil and anethole as an individual compound differ in their makeup, and also offer different degrees of aromatic fullness.
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