Ingredient Guide
Anise, also known in Japanese as seiyō-uikyō (“Western fennel”), belongs to the Apiaceae family. Its seed-like fruits are called anise fruits (aniseed).
Star anise, meanwhile, is not botanically related; it is a tall evergreen tree in the genus Illicium. It is also called dai-uikyō (“greater fennel”) in Japanese, and its star-shaped fruit has eight points, hence the name hakkaku (“eight corners”).
These two have very similar aromas and flavors: powerful, sweet, and warm.
Perfumer Annick Ménardo is known as the queen of anise notes, and has used anise in many perfumes for various brands. Her first anise-centered fragrance was Lolita Lempicka (1997).
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
In perfume, anise has a clearly defined scent with a sweetness reminiscent of licorice candy and a cool, refreshing herbal quality. Anise (Pimpinella anisum), used as a perfumery material, is a different plant from star anise (Illicium verum). Trans-anethole plays the central role in the scent of anise essential oil. Anethole is also supplied as a synthetic fragrance material, giving a clear expression to sweet, refreshing anise notes. Plant-derived essential oil and anethole as an individual compound differ in their makeup, and also offer different degrees of aromatic fullness.
How to Choose Anise and Star Anise Fragrances
Anise’s sweet, herbal character works with both powdery flowers and cool mint. The softness of violet and iris leads in one direction; a crisp, cooling effect leads in another.
Comparing Anise and Star Anise Fragrances
L’Heure Bleue 1912 Eau de Parfum (Guerlain)
Anise and bergamot lead into a neroli-and-carnation accord, violet, iris and vanilla. Sweet anise meets powdery flowers. This is the 1912 fragrance in the Les Légendaires collection, distinct from the newer eau de parfum of the same name.
Aimez-Moi Eau de Parfum (Caron)
Violet and star anise are joined by bergamot, mint and cardamom. Compared with the flowers and sweetness of L’Heure Bleue 1912, mint and spices bring a cooler character.
Find Your Next Fragrance
To explore more perfumes, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, then search in the “Favorite notes” field. Select a note you like from the results and press “Next” to continue. You can start with notes even if you do not yet have a favorite perfume.
