Ionone is a major component of violet (in Japanese). Large amounts of ionone temporarily weaken the olfactory receptors, so if you smell a violet flower but cannot detect its scent, this is said to be a likely reason.
In 1893, the chemists Tiemann and Krüger discovered ionone, making it possible to produce the scent of violets inexpensively.
The ionone family includes α-ionone, β-ionone, methyl ionone, and irone.
- α-Ionone: A floral scent closest to that of violet flowers.
- β-Ionone: Has a scent reminiscent of freesia, as well as raspberry-like fruitiness.
- Methyl ionone: A little woodier than ionone, with an iris (in Japanese) scent touched by a violet nuance.
- α-Irone: The woodiness of iris, raspberry-like sweetness, and powderiness.
- β-Irone: Fresh, woody, and powdery.
The first violet perfume to use ionone was Vera Violetta (Roger & Gallet, 1895, Henri Roger). The person who made this scent a foundation of tea (in Japanese) perfumery was Jean-Claude Ellena (in Japanese).
β-Ionone is a synthetic ingredient discovered in 1893, but for almost a century its scent was identified with that of violets. I found a new use for β-ionone by combining it with a jasmine (in Japanese)-scented ingredient, Hedione (in Japanese), to create a green-tea accord. This is how Bvlgari’s “Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert” was born. The perfume became a model for scents on the market and changed the meaning of a smell. Ionone no longer smelled only of violets; it also carried the aroma of tea.
Jean-Claude Ellena
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Ionones, methyl ionones, and irones all bring violets or orris to mind, but they are distinct materials. β-Ionone is a single compound that ranges from cedar-like woodiness to a soft violet scent depending on concentration. Methyl-ionone mixtures such as IRALIA create a powdery orris character with a fruity touch. Natural orris extracts, meanwhile, contain irones formed as the rhizomes mature. Even when their olfactory characters are similar, their origins differ: synthetic molecules, mixtures of isomers, and natural extracts.
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