Salicylate

Salicylates occur as constituents of many flowers and have a powdery, astringent character, a slightly sweet balsamic scent, and a faint medicinal note. In floral accords (in Japanese), they are used for gardenia, tiare, and frangipani, bringing a summery warmth. There are several types.

Benzyl Salicylate

With mild balsamic and sweet floral notes, it is used in rich florals such as ylang-ylang (in Japanese), gardenia, jasmine (in Japanese), and lily, as well as in soaps, shampoos, and fabric softeners.
The floral bouquet of the original L’Air du Temps (Nina Ricci, 1948, Francis Fabron) was characterized by an overdose of salicylates.

Methyl Salicylate

  It occurs naturally in tuberose (in Japanese), jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, and neroli, and has a nuance reminiscent of eucalyptus. It is also a major constituent of birch tar, used in Russia to care for leather, and is used in perfumes built around the theme of Cuir de Russie (Russian leather) (in Japanese), such as Dzing! and Bulgari Black. It is also present in cassie absolute (in Japanese).

Amyl Salicylate

It has a sweet floral scent with a green aromatic character and is used to evoke orchids and clover.

What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?

Salicylates are not a single substance, but a collective name for several salicylic acid esters. Benzyl salicylate and amyl salicylate are different molecules; the latter has a scent reminiscent of flowers and fruit and is so tenacious that it lasts for several weeks on a blotter. Natural tuberose absolute also contains methyl salicylate and benzyl salicylate. In perfume, these materials support floral volume and the lingering scent, but their odor profiles, origins, and volatility differ from one type to another.