Clove, also called chōji in Japanese, is harvested when the green flower buds of the clove tree begin to turn reddish; extracts are also obtained from its twigs and flower stalks. Its Chinese name, written with characters meaning a small nail, comes from the rusty-nail shape of the dried buds.
The clove tree is a long-lived plant that continues producing buds for nearly 70 years. The buds are harvested before flowering to prevent them from drying out in sunlight.
Indonesia accounts for 75% of production. Because eugenol makes up most of its aromatic composition, clove has a spicy scent similar to carnation (in Japanese). Its fragrance is powerful and warm, with a spicy sweetness as well.
In oriental-style perfumes (in Japanese), eugenol plays an important role in the mellis accord. It is often used in classic oriental fragrances.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural clove bud oil is an essential oil distilled from the flower buds. Its warm spice is layered with powdery, woody, sweet, smoky, and medicinally pungent facets, and it contains multiple constituents, including eugenol. Dihydroeugenol, by contrast, is a separate synthetic molecule with a drier, fresher character than eugenol; it gives the top notes a strong spicy bite while enhancing floral scents. The complex warmth of the natural essential oil and the crisp impact of the single molecule serve different purposes, so even within a “clove-like” character, the results are not the same.
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