Ingredient Guide
Its Japanese name is mokusei, a name inspired by the resemblance of its bark to a rhinoceros’s legs. The white-flowered form is called ginmokusei, while the yellow-flowered form is called kinmokusei. Kinmokusei has a richer, sweeter fragrance than ginmokusei and is often used to scent tea in China.
Its scent has a fruity side reminiscent of plums and apricots, as well as a suede-like leathery side. The absolute is extremely expensive, costing at least ¥400,000 per kilogram, and is used only in the most expensive perfumes.
The first company to introduce kinmokusei concrete to the European perfume industry was LMR (Laboratoire Monique Rémy), which worked with Chinese collaborators in 1985.
The first use of kinmokusei in a perfume was in 1000 (Mille, Jean Patou, 1972, Jean Kerléo), at a level of 1–2%.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural osmanthus absolute combines fruitiness reminiscent of yellow peaches, ripe apricots, and dried apricots with nuances of white flowers, tea leaves, and soft leather, all within a single material. Sweet and radiant, it also has a faint green quality and the dry side of leather, giving perfume both fruity roundness and composed depth. Its great distinction is the complexity with which these different floral, fruity, tea-like, and leathery facets blend naturally together. It can suggest a juicy peach, or be used for a deep texture reminiscent of dried apricots and suede.
Choosing a fragrance with osmanthus
When choosing osmanthus, consider whether you are drawn to the flowers, apricot-like fruitiness, or nuances of tea and suede.
- Bright flowers: Citrus or neroli suits a fresher take on osmanthus.
- Apricot sweetness: Juicy fruit and rich dried apricot give different impressions of the same fruity quality.
- A quieter finish: Tea or leather notes add depth beyond floral sweetness.
Two fragrances featuring osmanthus
Osmanthus Eau de Parfum (Acqua di Parma)
Osmanthus flowers are accompanied by green mandarin and neroli. Citrus highlights a bright, radiant floral character.
Osmanthe Yunnan Eau de Toilette (Hermès)
The apricot-like scent of osmanthus blends into velvety tea. Rather than Acqua di Parma’s bright citrus, this explores fruity flowers with the smooth calm of tea.
Find your next fragrance
In Fragrance Finder, choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, then look for notes you enjoy under “Favorite notes”. Select from the available suggestions and press “Next”.
