Its Japanese name is mokusei, a name inspired by the resemblance of its bark to a rhinoceros’s legs. The white-flowered form is called ginmokusei, while the yellow-flowered form is called kinmokusei. Kinmokusei has a richer, sweeter fragrance than ginmokusei and is often used to scent tea in China.
Its scent has a fruity side reminiscent of plums and apricots, as well as a suede-like leathery side. The absolute is extremely expensive, costing at least ¥400,000 per kilogram, and is used only in the most expensive perfumes.
The first company to introduce kinmokusei concrete to the European perfume industry was LMR (Laboratoire Monique Rémy) (in Japanese), which worked with Chinese collaborators in 1985.
The first use of kinmokusei in a perfume was in 1000 (Mille, Jean Patou, 1972, Jean Kerléo), at a level of 1–2%.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural osmanthus absolute combines fruitiness reminiscent of yellow peaches, ripe apricots, and dried apricots with nuances of white flowers, tea leaves, and soft leather, all within a single material. Sweet and radiant, it also has a faint green quality and the dry side of leather, giving perfume both fruity roundness and composed depth. Its great distinction is the complexity with which these different floral, fruity, tea-like, and leathery facets blend naturally together. It can suggest a juicy peach, or be used for a deep texture reminiscent of dried apricots and suede.
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