Elemi comes from a plant in the Burseraceae family native to the Philippines. The fragrance material is obtained by steam distillation (in Japanese) of the resin that seeps from the tree. The resin is obtained either as a secretion caused by disease in the tree or by making incisions to release sap when new shoots appear. Fresh elemi is a semisolid, white, waxy mass.
According to one theory, the name elemi is thought to derive from an Arabic phrase meaning “As above, so below,” and it has been used as a sacred, spiritual material. In Manila, it is called “pili.” It is also well known for its use by skincare brands, including Chanel, because of its usefulness as a botanical ingredient.
Its scent is very fresh, with a woody, balsamic character within an aromatic scent of pepper and citrus, especially lemon. In perfumery, it is used for fresh top notes in florals and fougères, and also as a base (fixative) in eaux de cologne. It also pairs beautifully with other resinous fragrance materials, such as myrrh (in Japanese), opoponax (in Japanese), and frankincense.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural elemi used in perfume includes both an essential oil obtained by steam-distilling the resin and a resinoid extracted with solvents. The essential oil combines a brightness reminiscent of lemon peel and pepper with woody and balsamic facets, lightly connecting a citrus opening with amber and spices. The resinoid is used to add freshness to woody, spicy, and zesty fragrances. Essential oil and resinoid are obtained by different extraction methods, so although both are elemi, they are different kinds of product.
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