Mimosa

Two types of mimosa are used in perfumery, with the botanical names Acacia dealbata Lam and Acacia floribunda Wild (also called fusa-akashia in Japan). Cassie (in Japanese) and mimosa are close relatives, differing only in species. Outside Japan, mimosa is often simply called acacia.

Native to Australia, mimosa was introduced to Europe by Captain James Cook in 1776, although accounts vary. In France, it is cultivated extensively, particularly in the Tanneron valley and the Tereru Mountains. Louis Vuitton’s Heures d’Absence uses mimosa from Tanneron. Mimosa festivals are also held in Tanneron, where the best mimosa of the year is sometimes chosen.

Mimosa blooms from mid-December to early April, with an annual yield of 5,000–6,000 kg per hectare (an area measuring 100 m by 100 m).

As for its scent, the concrete (in Japanese) obtained by solvent extraction differs from the scent of the flower, suggesting ylang-ylang (in Japanese) and orris (in Japanese). When it is made into an absolute (in Japanese), it has floral, aldehydic, and green notes, as well as a fruity quality. Incidentally, the first to propose using mimosa in perfume were the Bertrand brothers, founders of Roure-Bertrand (in Japanese).

What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?

In perfume, mimosa is a soft, powdery floral scent reminiscent of pollen, hay, honey, and tea. The natural absolute obtained from the flowers and small twigs of Acacia dealbata also has green-leaf, fruity, anise-like, and watery melon facets, bringing a light green touch to the floral sweetness. A mimosa impression can also be built from a combination of synthetic fragrance materials. For example, HELIOTROPIN BASE, which also has a mimosa character, adds creamy powderiness through almond, vanilla, and milky sweetness.