Civet is collected from the secretory glands of civets (which look rather more like foxes than cats) living in Africa, India, China, and Malaysia. It is also known in Japanese as reibyōkō. Civet farming is an industry in Ethiopia in particular, which is renowned for the highest quality.
The Source of Civet
When civets are kept individually in cages, civet accumulates in the scent gland between the anus and the genitals. About 10 g can be collected by scraping it out with a spatula every seven to ten days. Soft, fluid civet is pale yellow when fresh, but gradually darkens when exposed to light. Its odor is intense, pungent, wild, and fecal.
When diluted, however, it develops a seductive warmth and a floral-like radiance, and is used to prolong a fragrance’s lasting power. It is said that Cleopatra, queen of ancient Egypt, rubbed this aromatic substance onto her body and captivated many men.
Civet Today
Today, the materials used for this purpose in perfumery are generally synthetic fragrance ingredients (in Japanese).
Civets are associated not only with fragrance, but also with coffee made using their droppings, particularly in Malaysia. When civets are fed the fruit of the coffee tree, the undigested coffee beans pass out in their droppings. Digestive enzymes and bacterial fermentation in the gut impart a distinctive flavor and aroma to the beans, and also halve their caffeine content. Coffee made from these collected beans is called kopi luwak.
Kopi luwak is sold as the most expensive coffee, at prices of ¥30,000 or more for 500 g. A civet-coffee shop on Cebu Island charges ¥1,300 for a cup containing 30% civet coffee, compared with ¥300 for ordinary coffee, which gives some idea of how costly it is.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
“Civet” in perfume can take several different forms: the natural animal secretion used historically, synthetic materials that help create its smell, and reconstitution bases that combine several fragrance ingredients. Civettone is a single molecule with a warm, animalic, musky character that adds depth and a sense of lasting presence. Civette Synth is a synthetic base that layers floral, honey, and musk facets over a sharp, fecal character. Neither is natural civet itself, and the single molecule Civettone and a blended reconstitution base are also different materials.
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