In 1966, the pharmaceutical company Pfizer (Japanese) discovered Calone (rendered in Japanese as karon or kyaron), also known as watermelon ketone. In fragrance, it is used to impart marine and ozone nuances; in food flavoring, it is used to add the taste and smell of watermelon. It also adds freshness to laundry products.
Its scent recalls quite concentrated brine, like lightly pickled cucumber, with a faint smokiness. It is also described as the smell of oysters or the damp air after a storm.
Combining it with synthetic musk (Japanese) can also make the scent last longer.
For a marine scent made with natural fragrance materials, seaweed absolute can be used, but it is quite expensive and also very intense.
Calone has a chemical structure very close to that of Lilial, which smells like lily of the valley. As of 2008, Firmenich (Japanese) held the trademark.
Its first use in perfume was in New West (Aramis, 1988, Yves Tanguy).
How does it smell in perfume?
Calone is neither a natural fragrance material extracted from seaweed nor an accord blended from several materials. It is a single synthetic molecule, also called watermelon ketone. Its transparent watery character combines marine, ozone, and delicate floral facets, creating a sense of waterside openness from the top through the heart of a perfume. It evokes a distinctive space of sea breeze, damp air, and watermelon rind, adding coolness and a sense of distance to a composition. Because it is a powerful material, the amount used can tilt the effect toward either refreshing clarity or a damp metallic character.
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