Oakmoss

オークモス

The moss growing on the trunks and branches of oak trees native to central and southern Europe is called oakmoss. More precisely, it is a lichen called tsunomatagoke in Japanese, growing on oak trees in the Fagaceae family. In other words, it is not actually a plant, but a combination of a fungus and an alga.
It is extracted mainly using organic solvents. Its scent is earthy, animalic, and leathery.
It is an indispensable material in fougère notes (in Japanese) and chypre notes (in Japanese), but because it contains substances that can cause allergies, its use was restricted by IFRA rules in 2009. As a result, it is said that the scents of chypre perfumes, a family containing many classics, changed across the board. There is also a synthetic substitute called Crystal Moss from which these allergens have been removed.

I particularly love the scent of oakmoss. What I have recently noticed is that it resembles the faint, wafting scent of a woman’s genitals.

Jean-Claude Ellena

What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?

Natural oakmoss absolute is a fragrance material obtained from the lichen Evernia prunastri, evoking a dark, damp forest. Behind a faint fruitiness are complex shades of moss, wood, balsam, leather, earth, smoke, and salt air, giving perfume a deep sense of nature and a quiet, lingering trail. Its distinctive character lies in the coexistence of brightness and the darkness of damp soil, dry leather and seaside air within a single material. Natural extracts are subject to restrictions on atranol-related substances, and manufacturers also supply grades that meet IFRA standards.

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