The plant with the scientific name Abelmoschus moschatus, a hibiscus relative in the genus Abelmoschus and the mallow family, is also known as ambrette or musk mallow. The seeds taken from its pods are called ambrette seeds. Although it is not often listed as an alternative name, Le Labo’s official Japanese website calls it “ambrette grain.”
It has large yellow flowers with purple centers. It is cultivated in countries near the equator, including Ecuador, Indonesia, and Angola.
The oil extracted from these seeds has a very distinctive character, with a scent somewhere between ambergris (in Japanese) and musk (in Japanese). This is why it is called a plant-derived musk. Its scent is light, fresh, slightly metallic, and reminiscent of lily of the valley (in Japanese), yet also quite animalic. Dilution brings out fruity pear notes, a facet like wine made from prunes, and a metallic aspect reminiscent of iris (in Japanese).
Because only a small amount of absolute (in Japanese) can be extracted, it is expensive, and synthetic musks are used more often.
If someone were to take a handful of ambrette seeds and smell them, they would not be able to identify a scent. Ambrette seeds do not release their scent unless they are cracked or crushed. […] The essential oil costs nearly €9,000 per liter and is an important element in Chanel’s Égoïste (1990) and Voyage d’Hermès (2010).
Jean-Claude Ellena
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural ambrette seed absolute combines facets reminiscent of earth, nuts, ripe fruit, and liqueur with smooth musk and an orris-like powderiness. The ambrettolide in the seeds supports its soft musky quality, providing delicate florals with a warm, rounded foundation. This is a multicomponent natural fragrance material obtained from the dried seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus. The natural extract itself and isolated ambrettolide, one of its aromatic constituents, are different kinds of material.
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