In-Depth Perfume Analysis
This page brings together original articles on this site and articles I created, contributed to, or supervised at Cahiers de Mode (in Japanese). At Cahiers de Mode, I contribute to article production by sharing knowledge, information, and analysis, and by checking and supplementing the content. I wrote the Guerlain articles, which were edited by Cahiers de Mode.
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Perfume Stories on This Site
Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt (in Japanese) (2014, Christine Nagel)
Louis Vuitton Pacific Chill (in Japanese) (2023, Jacques Cavallier)
Frédéric Malle Contre-Jour (2026, Annick Ménardo) (in Japanese)
Hermès (Hermes)
Agar Ébène (in Japanese) (2018, Christine Nagel)
Vanille Galante (in Japanese) (2009, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Cuir d’Ange (in Japanese) (2014, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Jour d’Hermès (in Japanese) (2013, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Muguet Porcelaine (in Japanese) (2016, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Cartier
Déclaration (1998, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Guerlain
Santal Pao Rosa (in Japanese) (2021, Delphine Jelk)
Louis Vuitton
Spell on You (in Japanese) (2021, Jacques Cavallier) (mainly contributed information on fragrance materials)
Kilian (Kilian Paris)
The Kilian Perfume Bible (for a portrait and history of Kilian Hennessy, see here (in Japanese))
The following are arranged by release date and collection.
A taste of Heaven, absinthe verte (in Japanese) (a taste of paradise: green absinthe, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Beyond Love, prohibited (in Japanese) (beyond love: forbidden love, Calice Becker)
Cruel Intentions, tempt me (in Japanese) (cruel intentions: tempting me, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Liaisons Dangereuses, typical me (in Japanese) (dangerous liaisons: so like me, Calice Becker)
Love, don’t be shy (in Japanese) (love: don’t be shy, Calice Becker)
Straight to Heaven, white crystal (in Japanese) (straight to paradise: white crystal, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Prelude to Love, invitation (in Japanese) (a prelude to love: temptation, Calice Becker)
Back to Black, aphrodisiac (in Japanese) (back into darkness: aphrodisiac, Calice Becker)
Love & Tears, surrender (in Japanese) (love and tears: give yourself over, Calice Becker)
Sweet Redemption, the end (in Japanese) (sweet redemption: the final chapter, Calice Becker)
Love, don’t be shy Eau Fraiche (in Japanese) (Calice Becker)
Love, don’t be shy Extreme (in Japanese) (Calice Becker)
All About the In the garden of Good and Evil Collection (in Japanese)
Forbidden Games (in Japanese) (“forbidden games”, Calice Becker)
Good Girl Gone Bad (in Japanese) (“a good girl turns bad”, Alberto Morillas)
In The City of Sin (in Japanese) (“in the city of sin”, Calice Becker)
Playing with the Devil (in Japanese) (“playing with the devil”, Calice Becker)
Voulez-vous coucher avec moi (in Japanese) (“Won’t you sleep with me?”, Alberto Morillas)
Good Girl Gone Bad Extreme (in Japanese) (Alberto Morillas)
Good Girl Gone Bad Eau Fraiche (in Japanese) (Alberto Morillas)
Bamboo Harmony (“The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter: a bamboo melody”, Calice Becker)
Flower of Immortality (“Peach Blossom Paradise: a flower bestowing immortality”, Calice Becker)
Imperial Tea (in Japanese) (“the legend of Da Hong Pao: the emperor’s tea”, Calice Becker)
Intoxicated (an addiction to Turkish coffee, Calice Becker)
Light My Fire (an addiction to Montecristo cigars, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Smoke for the Soul (drug addiction, Fabrice Pellegrin)
Woman in Gold (Calice Becker)
Gold Knight (Pascal Gaurin)
Black Phantom – Memento Mori (Sidonie Lancesseur)
Dark Lord – Ex Tenebris Lux (in Japanese) (Alberto Morillas)
Apple Brandy, New York (in Japanese) (exclusive to New York, United States, Sidonie Lancesseur)
On the Rocks, Moscow (now Vodka on the Rocks; formerly exclusive to Moscow, Russia, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Single Malt, London (exclusive to Harrods in London, United Kingdom, Sidonie Lancesseur)
Lemon in zest, Lugano (exclusive to Lugano, Switzerland, Alberto Morillas))
Pearl Oud, Doha (exclusive to Doha, Qatar, Christian Provenzano)
Royal Leather, Mayfair (exclusive to Burlington Arcade in Mayfair, London, United Kingdom, Fabrice Pellegrin)
Noir Aphrodisiaque, Paris (exclusive to Paris, France, Calice Becker)
Angel's Share (the angels’ share, Benoist Lapouza)
Roses on Ice (Frank Voelkl)
Apple Brandy on the rocks (in Japanese) (Sidonie Lancesseur)
Moonlight in Heaven (Calice Becker)
Rolling in Love (Calice Becker)
Frédéric Malle (Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle)
The Frédéric Malle Perfume Bible (in Japanese) (for a portrait and history of Frédéric Malle, see here (in Japanese))
The following are in Japanese syllabary order.
Outrageous (in Japanese) (2007, Sophia Grojsman→This site (in Japanese) / Cahiers de Mode (in Japanese))
Angéliques sous la Pluie (in Japanese) (2000, Jean-Claude Ellena→This site (in Japanese) / Cahiers de Mode (in Japanese))
En Passant (in Japanese) (2000, Olivia Giacobetti→This site (in Japanese) / Cahiers de Mode (in Japanese))
Iris Poudre (in Japanese) (2000, Pierre Bourdon (in Japanese))
Cologne Indélébile (in Japanese) (2015, Dominique Ropion)
Cologne Bigarade (in Japanese) (2001, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Sale Gosse (in Japanese) (2017, Fanny Bal)
Synthetic Jungle (in Japanese) (2021, Anne Flipo→Cahiers de Mode (in Japanese))
Superstitious (in Japanese) (2016, Dominique Ropion)
Géranium pour Monsieur (in Japanese) (2009, Dominique Ropion)
Noir Épices (in Japanese) (2000, Michel Roudnitska (in Japanese))
Bigarade Concentrée (in Japanese) (2002, Jean-Claude Ellena)
French Lover (in Japanese) (2007, Pierre Bourdon)
Promise (in Japanese) (2017, Dominique Ropion)
Vétiver Extraordinaire (in Japanese) (2002, Dominique Ropion)
Portrait of a Lady (in Japanese) (2010, Dominique Ropion)
Music for a While (in Japanese) (2018, Carlos Benaïm)
Musc Ravageur (in Japanese) (2000, Maurice Roucel)
Monsieur (in Japanese) (2015, Bruno Jovanovic)
Une Fleur de Cassie (in Japanese) (2000, Dominique Ropion)
Lys Méditerranée (in Japanese) (2000, Edouard Fléchier)
Le Parfum de Thérèse (in Japanese) (2000, Edmond Roudnitska (in Japanese))
Rose & Cuir (in Japanese) (2019, Jean-Claude Ellena)
L’Eau d’Hiver (in Japanese) (2003, Jean-Claude Ellena)
Le Labo
Iris 39 (Frank Voelkl)
Ambrette 9 (Michel Almairac (in Japanese))
Jasmin 17 (Maurice Roucel)
Neroli 36 (in Japanese) (Daphné Bugey)
Patchouli 24 (in Japanese) (Annick Ménardo)
Fleur d’Oranger 27 (Françoise Caron)
Vetiver 46 (in Japanese) (Mark Buxton)
Bergamote 22 (in Japanese) (Daphné Bugey)
Labdanum 18 (Maurice Roucel)
Rose 31 (in Japanese) (Daphné Bugey)
Oud 27 (Vincent Schaller)
Another 13 (Nathalie Lorson)
Santal 33 (Frank Voelkl)
Lys 41 (Daphné Bugey)
Thé Noir 29 (Frank Voelkl)
Ylang 49 (Frank Voelkl)
Tonka 25 (Daphné Bugey)
Baie 19 (Frank Voelkl)
Tubereuse 40 (in Japanese) (New York, Alberto Morillas)
Aldehyde 44 (in Japanese) (Dallas, Yann Vasnier)
Vanille 44 (in Japanese) (Paris, Alberto Morillas)
Poivre 23 (in Japanese) (London, Nathalie Lorson)
Musc 25 (in Japanese) (Los Angeles, Frank Voelkl)
Gaiac 10 (in Japanese) (Tokyo, Annick Ménardo)
Baie Rose 26 (in Japanese) (Chicago, Frank Voelkl)
Limette 37 (in Japanese) (San Francisco, Frank Voelkl)
Benjoin 19 (in Japanese) (Moscow, Frank Voelkl)
Cuir 28 (in Japanese) (Dubai, Nathalie Lorson)
Mousse de Chêne 30 (in Japanese) (Amsterdam, Daphné Bugey)
Bigarade 18 (in Japanese) (Hong Kong, Frank Voelkl)
Tabac 28 (in Japanese) (Miami, Frank Voelkl)
Citron 28 (in Japanese) (Seoul, Daphné Bugey)
Cedrat 37 (in Japanese) (Berlin)



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