A. Fragrance concentration (in Japanese) (fukōritsu in Japanese) means the proportion of fragrance materials dissolved in alcohol. In other words, it refers to “the concentration of fragrance materials in a scent,” but fragrance concentration does not equal scent strength. Scent strength is determined more by the fragrance materials themselves.
Alcohol also makes fragrance materials evaporate (in Japanese) (kihatsu in Japanese) more readily, allowing the scent to disperse more easily into the air. Thus, a higher concentration of fragrance materials means less alcohol, which means the scent evaporates less readily and tends to remain on the skin.
As outlined below, fragrance concentration broadly determines how long a scent lasts, but the quality of the fragrance materials and the amount of less volatile materials used in the base notes (in Japanese) also have a major influence. For example, a fragrance rich in citrus will last for a very different length of time from one that uses a great deal of wood notes or vanilla. Moreover, terms such as eau de toilette and eau de parfum do not simply indicate different concentrations: they are “terms that describe forms of perfume expression” (from Miya Shinma’s The Golden Rules of Perfume). Criticizing an eau de toilette by saying “It does not last long!” is therefore actually misplaced. That is only to be expected.
The Differences Between Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Parfum
The names cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and parfum are not internationally standardized categories with strictly uniform concentrations. Ranges and formulas differ by brand, region, and product. IFRA gives the following typical usage ranges for ethanol-based fragrances.
| Name | Typical Concentration Range | Usual Guide |
|---|---|---|
| Eau de Cologne (EdC) | 3–8% | About 5% |
| Eau de Toilette (EdT) | 5–15% | About 10% |
| Eau de Parfum (EdP) / Parfum de Toilette | 10–20% | About 15% |
| Parfum / Extrait (Perfume Extract) | 15–40% | About 20% |
These are general guidelines: a name alone cannot establish how strong a fragrance is or how long it will last. Even the EDT and EDP versions of the same perfume may have different fragrance compositions, rather than merely different concentrations.
Wear time is not uniformly determined by fragrance concentration alone. Higher-concentration products generally tend to linger longer, but longevity also varies greatly with the volatility of the materials, the formula, the amount applied, skin condition, temperature, and humidity. Rather than assuming a particular number of hours from the name alone, check the product description and try the fragrance yourself.
For how a scent changes over time, see the differences between top, middle, and base notes (in Japanese); for how much to apply, also see how to wear perfume properly (in Japanese).
Eau de Cologne
Eau means “water” in French. Eau de cologne therefore means “water from (de) Cologne, the English name for the German city of Köln.” It acquired this name because it was brought from Germany to France. Originally, it was used as a product for bodily hygiene and as a drinkable cure-all to ease physical discomfort.
An anecdote recounts that Napoleon used 30 liters or more in a week of an early eau de cologne, and even asked whether there was any eau de cologne when exiled to an island.
Eau de cologne tends to suit enjoying a refreshing impression over a short period. It may contain representative citrus fruits such as lemon, orange, and bergamot (in Japanese), as well as orange blossom, neroli, or petitgrain. Fragrance concentration is generally 3–8%, typically around 5%. How it actually smells and wears depends on the product’s formula.
Eau de Toilette:
Eau de toilette means “water for the toilette (toilet),” but toilette here means grooming oneself. It therefore refers to water used for personal grooming.
Since the word also has the meaning of “cloth,” there is also a theory that it derives from scented cloth. Hundreds of years ago, cloth was infused with scent over a period of months, made sponge-like, then dried and used to cleanse and perfume the body. Over time, preparations dissolved in alcohol came to be made.
Eau de toilette tends to be more concentrated than eau de cologne, generally at 5–15% fragrance concentration and typically around 10%. While many products are light and easy to wear, their longevity and diffusion vary with their fragrance composition, the amount applied, skin, and surroundings.
Eau de Parfum:
Eau de parfum generally has a fragrance concentration of 10–20%, typically around 15%. Many products offer a richer sillage (in Japanese) (scent trail) and a longer lingering impression than cologne or eau de toilette, but they do not necessarily project strongly.
Parfum (Perfume):
Historically, fragrances regarded as great classics have been released in parfum form. Parfum or extrait generally has a fragrance concentration of 15–40%, typically around 20%. A high concentration does not necessarily mean strong projection over a distance; some products linger close to the skin for a long time. Longevity varies with the formula, the amount applied, skin condition, and the surroundings.
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