LOEWE: Scents of Nature and Memory Woven by a Kingdom of Leather

This is a very personal project for me. I spent a great deal of time creating it because I truly believe in this fragrance. Above all, I wanted it to feel like a credible, natural extension of what Loewe embodies today.
── Jonathan Anderson (LOEWE Creative Director, 2013–2025)

Basic Information

Brand name: LOEWE
Founded: 1846 (Madrid)
Founders: A group of Spanish artisans (1846), joined by Enrique Loewe Roessberg in 1872
Fragrance division established: 1972
Group: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (since 1996)
Official websites: LOEWE Perfumes / LOEWE

The Founder and the Origins of the Brand

A Story That Began in a Madrid Leather Workshop

1846: Madrid was celebrating the wedding of Spain’s Queen Isabella II. In the lively commercial district of calle Lobo, later calle Echegaray, a leather workshop opened its doors. Its Spanish artisans made small leather goods such as wallets, cigarette cases, and jewelry cases. This modest workshop was the origin of Loewe, which would eventually become one of Spain’s leading luxury houses.

The Arrival of German Craftsman Enrique Loewe Roessberg

In 1872, Enrique Loewe Roessberg, a leather craftsman from Kassel, Germany, arrived in Madrid after traveling through the capitals of Europe. Impressed by the Spanish artisans’ exceptional skills and the high quality of their materials, he decided to join their workshop.

“Enrique Loewe’s precision and technical methodology combined with the Spanish artisans’ creativity and incomparable leather craftsmanship, and LOEWE was born.”
── LOEWE official website

Enrique named the brand LOEWE after his own surname. German precision and Spanish sensuality: the intersection of these two cultures is the DNA running through Loewe. By 1892, it was displaying large signs on Madrid’s street corners, making the brand’s presence widely known.

Royal Patronage and International Renown

In 1905, Spain’s King Alfonso XIII granted Loewe the title of “Purveyor to the Royal Court.” Queen Victoria Eugenia was a regular customer at its shop on calle Príncipe in Madrid. With this royal endorsement, Loewe became known among Europe’s upper classes. Its clientele of famous figures, including Ernest Hemingway, Ava Gardner, Rita Hayworth, Marlene Dietrich, and Sophia Loren, further enhanced the brand’s prestige.

In 1934, third-generation Enrique Loewe Knappe took over management. After the Spanish Civil War, he built a new era of expansion for the brand. Particularly noteworthy was his acquisition of exclusive Spanish distribution rights for Dior’s “New Look” in 1947, which strengthened Loewe’s position in fashion. In 1963, it opened its first overseas shop in London, and in 1973 expanded into Asian markets, including Tokyo.

The Logo, Perfume, and LVMH

In 1970, Spanish painter Vicente Vela designed the iconic Anagram logo combining four Ls. This monogram was inspired by the original branding irons used to stamp leather.

Then, in 1972, Loewe stepped into the world of fragrance, launching its first women’s perfume, L de Loewe. This marked the beginning of LOEWE Perfumes.

Fourth-generation Enrique Loewe Lynch (1941–2020) joined the family business in the late 1960s and led the brand’s international expansion. In 1988, he established the LOEWE FOUNDATION and began supporting creativity in poetry, dance, photography, art, and craft. The Foundation’s work continues today, with his daughter Sheila Loewe serving as chair.

LVMH acquired Loewe’s international distribution rights in 1986 and took full ownership of the brand in 1996. Its sales were reportedly around $200 million at the time. Successive creative directors, Narciso Rodriguez (1996–2001), José Enrique Oña Selfa (2001–2007), and Stuart Vevers (2007–2013), each brought their own character to the house.

The Jonathan Anderson Era: Transformation into a “Cultural Brand”

In 2013, Jonathan Anderson, from Magherafelt in Northern Ireland, became Loewe’s creative director. Still in his twenties, the London College of Fashion graduate had already attracted attention through his own label, JW Anderson, founded in 2008. In 2015, he achieved an unprecedented double at the British Fashion Awards, winning Designer of the Year in both menswear and womenswear simultaneously.

Anderson set himself the goal of transforming Loewe into a “cultural brand.”

“I like the idea that opposites attract, things that I’m curious about – it’s all about curiosity.”
(I like the idea of opposites attracting. Curiosity is everything.)
── Jonathan Anderson

Over the eleven years following his appointment, Loewe’s clothing sales reportedly rose by 380%. His initiatives, including iconic bags such as the Puzzle, the establishment of the LOEWE FOUNDATION Craft Prize, and collaborations with Studio Ghibli, continually shook up the fashion industry. In fragrance, too, Anderson would bring about a decisive renewal.

In March 2025, Anderson left Loewe after an eleven-year tenure.

“While my chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come, and I will look on with pride, watching it continue to grow, the amazing Spanish brand I once called home.”
(My chapter is closing, but Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come. I will proudly watch this wonderful Spanish brand I once called home continue to grow.)
── Jonathan Anderson, departure statement

He was succeeded by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, founders of the New York luxury brand Proenza Schouler, who began their new creative direction on April 7, 2025.

Two “Noses”: Emilio Valeros and Nuria Cruelles

Essential to any account of Loewe’s fragrance history are its two in-house perfumers, known as “noses.”

Emilio Valeros is a legendary perfumer who served as Loewe’s “nose” for around 30 years, beginning around 1989. Born in Madrid, he encountered the world of scent from childhood through his father’s work in a fragrance laboratory. After studying chemistry and training in Grasse, France, he gained experience at international fragrance companies including GAL, IFF, and Firmenich. At Loewe, he created at least 89 fragrances, including many celebrated works such as Solo Loewe and Aura Loewe. He also worked to promote lavender cultivation in Spain’s Alcarria region and helped establish its Lavender Festival.

“El perfume es la forma más tenaz del recuerdo.”
(Perfume is the most tenacious form of memory.)
── Emilio Valeros

When Valeros retired in 2019, he was succeeded by Nuria Cruelles. Born in Spain, she decided to study chemistry at seventeen and was recruited by Anderson while working in a laboratory at IFF, International Flavors & Fragrances. She joined Loewe in 2018.

Cruelles’ most distinctive characteristic is her synesthesia, a rare sensory ability to perceive scents visually as colors and shapes. She also trained as an oenologist, a specialist in winemaking, and is known for a unique sensibility that crosses the worlds of wine and perfume. According to LVMH’s official website, few houses in the world have a female in-house perfumer.

“When Loewe offered me this role, it felt like the kind of opportunity that comes around once in a lifetime.”
(When Loewe offered me this role, I felt it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.)
── Nuria Cruelles

She has also spoken of knowing Loewe perfumes since childhood through Aire, which her mother wore. This episode, in which personal memory intersects with the brand’s history, seems to symbolize LOEWE Perfumes’ theme of “nature and memory.”

The Brand’s Commitments

Making “Nature” the Starting Point for Everything

If LOEWE Perfumes’ philosophy can be expressed in a single phrase, it is “inspiration from nature.” Its official Instagram bio reads, “Crafting a multisensory kaleidoscope of colour, scent and emotion, inspired by nature” (creating a multisensory kaleidoscope of color, fragrance, and emotion inspired by nature).

Cruelles explains it this way.

“Nature is always our main source of inspiration. Based on that, the essence of LOEWE Perfumes is deeply embedded in the brand’s fundamental values—dedication to excellence, appreciation for craftsmanship, extensive research, boundless creativity, and savoir-faire.”
(Nature is always our main source of inspiration. On that foundation, the essence of LOEWE Perfumes is deeply rooted in the brand’s fundamental values: dedication to excellence, respect for craftsmanship, extensive research, limitless creativity, and savoir-faire.)
── Nuria Cruelles

This philosophy is clearly reflected in its bold embrace of materials often overlooked in conventional perfumery: tomato leaves, coriander, beetroot, and mushrooms.

Integrating Fashion and Fragrance

LOEWE Perfumes was long run as a separate company independent of the fashion division. Before Anderson’s appointment, it even had its own separate website. Launched in 2016, 001 was the first project to unite fashion and fragrance.

“Loewe has done perfumes since 1947, but this is the first time perfume and fashion have been combined.”
(Loewe has been making perfumes since 1947, but this is the first time fragrance and fashion have become one.)
── Jonathan Anderson

The Aesthetics of Bottle and Packaging Design

Loewe perfumes embody a strong commitment to their containers and packaging as well.

The 001 series: A simple, restrained glass bottle topped with an ash-wood cap. The packaging was designed by M/M Paris, Anderson’s regular collaborators, using paper from James Cropper. It opens like a book and is decorated with botanical photographs by German photographer Karl Blossfeldt. Known for photographs that captured plant forms sculpturally in the early twentieth century, Blossfeldt has been central to the visual identity of LOEWE Perfumes as a whole since 2019.
Botanical Rainbow: A simple, colorful design of rectangular glass flasks with wooden caps.
Un Paseo Por Madrid: Pale gray frosted glass fitted with a marble cap reminiscent of the Nero Aureus marble used in traditional Spanish architecture.
Home Scents: Candle vessels in hand-glazed terracotta inspired by Greek cups from the fifth century BCE. Their candlestick designs reference French flambeaux from the reign of Louis XIV.
The Crafted Collection (2025): Sculptural flasks with bubbles trapped in hand-blown glass, topped with granite caps.

The “LOEWE Accord”: Spanish DNA

From 2024 onward, new LOEWE Perfumes creations began incorporating a shared signature note called the “LOEWE Accord.” This scent is based on labdanum, the resin extracted from rockrose, scientifically known as Cistus ladanifer, which grows wild in Spain’s rocky landscapes.

“I find the rockrose to be fascinating. It’s an ideal ingredient to experiment with due to its subtle and comfortable nature. Its essence effortlessly blends with various notes and is deeply rooted in the unique essence of Spain.”
(I am fascinated by rockrose. Its subtle, comforting nature makes it an ideal material for experimentation. Its scent naturally harmonizes with different notes and is deeply rooted in Spain’s unique essence.)
── Nuria Cruelles

Labdanum is a resinous fragrance material with a leathery warmth, prized since ancient times and a central material in amber accords. The LOEWE Accord is said to be destined for inclusion in all future new releases as “the brand’s DNA.”

The Fragrance Lineup

LOEWE Perfumes has now introduced more than 158 perfumes. Covering every one is not practical, but let us look at the structure and characteristics of its main collections.

Botanical Rainbow

The core collection of LOEWE Perfumes consists of nine fragrance families, each reflecting the colors and scents of nature.

001: The starting point of the Anderson era. A pair of fragrances, Woman and Man, inspired by “the morning after a first romantic encounter.” Built around bergamot, tangerine, and sandalwood, Woman adds jasmine and vanilla, while Man features cedar and musk.
Aire: Launched in 1985, one of Spain’s best-loved fragrances. A floral masterpiece by perfumer Olivier Cresp, it is etched into the memories of many Spanish women.
Solo: Launched in 2004. A family inspired by the harmonious moment when the sun sets. In 2024, Solo Vulcan joined it as a new creation incorporating the LOEWE Accord.
Agua: Launched in 2000, on the theme of the sparkle of flowing water. Agua Drop (2024) is a fresh, floral new line.
Esencia: Launched in 1988. A woody, aromatic men’s classic.
Aura: Launched in 1994. Characterized by sandalwood and musk notes.
7: Launched in 2010. A family inspired by the infinite mysteries stretching to the edge of the universe.
Earth: Launched in 2022. A unisex line combining floral, amber, and musky scents with truffle and violet.

Un Paseo Por Madrid

A unisex collection inspired by the culture and spaces of Loewe’s home city, Madrid. It consists of six fragrances. Ópera, for example, is a powdery, woody scent evoking a dramatic performance at Madrid’s Teatro Real, the Royal Theater. Doré takes inspiration from archival screenings at Madrid’s modernist Cine Doré. Its distinctive combination of frosted-glass bottles and marble caps sets the collection apart.

Paula’s Ibiza

A casual series capturing the summer atmosphere of the Balearic Islands. The sweetness of coconut runs throughout, expressing the feeling of long summer days turning into warm nights. Cosmic (2024), the series’ first eau de parfum, is a tropical yet warm scent combining mango, pear, and coconut cream with amber and sandalwood.

Home Scents

Launched in 2020, this home-fragrance collection was inspired by the vegetable garden at Anderson’s London home.

“These are olfactory sketches that remind me of my childhood, of different journeys I have taken. Part Victorian botanical garden, part apothecary, the mix is both scientific and sentimental.”
(These are olfactory sketches that remind me of my childhood and various journeys. Part Victorian botanical garden and part apothecary, the mixture is scientific and sentimental at the same time.)
── Jonathan Anderson

Available in diverse formats including candles, rattan diffusers, soaps, and room sprays, it offers at least eleven botanical essences, including tomato leaves, coriander, oregano, juniper berry, cannabis, and honeysuckle. The Tomato Leaves candle is especially popular; Cruelles herself says, “When I close my eyes and smell it, I am taken back to memories of the kitchen with my grandmother.” In 2025, three new candles joined the lineup: Black Sesame, Earl Grey, and Sweet Almond.

The Crafted Collection: The Beginning of a New Era

In autumn 2025, the Crafted Collection was unveiled as the first fragrance collection under McCollough and Hernandez’s new leadership. It comprises three eaux de parfum developed by Cruelles over at least two years.

Bittersweet Oud: A light reinterpretation of mysterious oud with bitter orange and sandalwood
Iris Root: Creamy iris rhizome combined with Timut pepper and angelica seed
Roasted Vanilla: A sensual vanilla in which oakwood and cognac blend

“It’s about respecting the integrity of craft ingredients and redefining them in a contemporary way.”
(At its heart is respect for the authenticity of carefully selected materials, while redefining them in a contemporary way.)
── Nuria Cruelles

The sculptural bottles, with bubbles suspended in hand-blown glass, distill Loewe’s spirit of craftsmanship. Cruelles confidently suggests that people “will not part with the bottle even when it is empty.”

Incidentally…

The origin of Loewe’s name: “Loewe” means “lion” in German. The brand’s name, however, comes strictly from the founder’s surname and has no direct connection with lions. The Spanish pronunciation is “lo-EH-beh,” though in English-speaking countries it is often pronounced “loh-EH-vay.”
Aire and memories of her mother: One of the things that drew in-house perfumer Cruelles into the world of perfume was Loewe’s Aire, which her mother wore. “She gave it to me as a present before she had even used it up,” she recalls.
Tomato leaves in perfume: Cruelles is regarded as the person who brought the unprecedented scent of Tomato Leaves into modern fragrance through Home Scents.
At home in both wine and perfume: Cruelles is an oenologist as well as a perfumer. “Wine and perfume have much in common. In wine, each ingredient tells the story of how it was made, while perfume evokes sensations, memories, and emotions. They speak two different languages,” she explains.
“If it feels right, you are going the wrong way.” Anderson posted this philosophy on Instagram: “My philosophy has always been that if it feels right in the moment, you’re going the wrong way.” (If it feels right in that moment, you are going in the wrong direction.) These words epitomize his contrarian creative spirit.