Ingredient Guide
Basic Information
Vetiver belongs to the grass family and has the scientific name Vetiveria zizanoides. Its name comes from the Tamil word “vettiveru (vetti means to tear apart, and ver means root).” Native to India, it is grown particularly in warm regions, and its main producing areas today are Indonesia (Java), Haiti, and Réunion (an island east of Madagascar). It grows in damp places, near marshes and rivers, adapts to extreme temperatures and a wide range of soil pH, and reaches a height of 1–2 m. Locally, it is used for sunshades, weaving, and medicines.
Vetiver oil was first chemically analyzed in France in 1809, and vetiver was first used in perfume in 1843 in a fragrance called KusKus (in Indonesia, vetiver is called khas, khus, or khus-khus). The first women’s perfume to use vetiver as a base note was Chanel No. 5.
Demand for vetiver as a fragrance material has increased in recent years, and annual essential-oil production reached 100 tonnes in 2019. It is also said that it cannot be recreated with synthetic fragrance materials. It is said to be used in 36% of Western perfumes and 20% of men’s perfumes.
You need tremendous skill to make a perfume that preserves the scent of vetiver. To use a fashion designer’s analogy, vetiver is like a magnificent silk that slips through your fingers. It is difficult to cut on the bias, but if you can do it, it shimmers.
Céline Ellena
Vetiver as a Fragrance Material
To extract the essential oil, the roots of plants grown for two to three years are dried, sliced crosswise, and finely crushed. Rhizomes (underground stems) and roots are distinct plant parts; PROSEA describes vetiver essential oil as obtained from rhizomes and roots. For example, Givaudan’s description of Vetiver Oil Haiti SIGNature states that the roots are washed and dried in the shade before distillation. Steam distillation is the usual method, with a yield of around 1%: 1,000 kg of roots produces 10 kg of essential oil. To obtain a more precisely defined set of vetiver aroma components, the essential oil is fractionally distilled, yielding a woody, earthier scent called vetiver heart.
Recently, many perfumers have sought vetiver essential oil obtained by molecular distillation, labeled, for example, Vetiver oil Haiti MD (MD stands for Molecular Distillation).
In general, its scent is green, with earthy roots, the aroma of fresh greenery, refreshing grapefruit-like citrus, woody notes, and warm, balsamic, ginger-like facets. Young roots in particular have an asparagus-like green note. It gives perfume an aromatic character and also slows evaporation. It is mainly used in chypre and floral fragrances.
If I were to compare vetiver to a person, it would be Dr. Indiana Jones. Dry earth, dust, ocher: vetiver reminds me of exotic places.
Yves Casser
Vetiver is often described as “green-smelling.” This is said to be because Carven’s Vetiver (1957, Edouard Hache), the first successful vetiver perfume, came in a green presentation box, and Guerlain, Roger&Gallet, and Lanvin subsequently used the same packaging color, causing the associations of scent and color to overlap.
Bourbon vetiver (vetiver from Réunion) is considered the finest quality, but because land and labor are limited, it is rarely used; Haitian vetiver, which is of equally high quality, is used instead.
Vetiver grass is distinctive as a perfume ingredient for two reasons: 1) there is no synthetic fragrance material with a similar smell; and 2) its character is so strong that when vetiver makes up most of a fragrance, there is little point in giving it another name, and it is usually called Vetiver.
Luca Turin
Differences in Scent
Javanese Vetiver
Known for its earthy, bitter, very smoky leathery notes. Its sweet, woody notes are long-lasting, and it also has an effect reminiscent of pink grapefruit peel.
Bourbon Vetiver
Earthy, rooty, spicy, leathery, hazelnut-like, and slightly rosy.
Haitian Vetiver
Smoky, woody, and slightly green. Smooth, with fresh and floral facets as well. It is the most widely produced vetiver in the world, and among Haiti’s exports, it is exported more than coffee, cocoa, and mangoes.
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Natural vetiver materials for perfume include essential oil steam-distilled from the roots and Vetiver Heart, obtained by fractionally distilling the essential oil. Haitian essential oil centers on dry wood and earth, with a scent reminiscent of smoke, nuts, and grapefruit, giving the base a long-lasting trail and depth. Vetiver Heart, although also naturally derived, is characterized by a cleaner, drier outline with nutty and grapefruit facets. The choice between them depends on whether the aim is to bring out earthy richness or transparency.
Notable Vetiver Perfumes
This classification is based mainly on Vetiver (Nez Editions, 2020), with additions made where appropriate. If you would like to explore the subject in more detail, I recommend this book.
I hope it helps you discover which kind of vetiver scent you enjoy.
Citrus & Vetiver
Vétiver (Guerlain, 1959), Terre d’Hermès (Hermès, 2006)
Aromatic & Vetiver
Sel de Vétiver (The Different Company, 2006)
Straightforward Vetiver
Vetiver Extraordinaire (Frédéric Malle, 2002), Vetiver Veritas (Heeley, 2014), Vetyverio (Diptyque, 2017)
Spicy & Vetiver
Vetiver 46 (Le Labo, 2006), Gingembre & Vétiver Sensuel (100Bon, 2016), Vetyverso (Laboratorio Olfattivo, 2019)
Oriental & Vetiver
Vetiver Oriental (Serge Lutens, 2002), Sycomore (Chanel, 2008), Vetiver & Golden Vanilla (Jo Malone, 2020)
Gourmand & Vetiver
Vetiver Tonka (Hermès, 2004), Bal d’Afrique (Byredo, 2008), Fat Electrician (Etat Libre d’Orange, 2009), Woody Perfecto (Parle Moi de Parfum, 2016)
Choosing Vetiver Fragrances
The vetiver fragrances listed above can be narrowed down by what draws you in: citrus, earth and roots, or smoke. Do you prefer bright citrus, or a fuller taste of vetiver’s bitterness? If you also enjoy woods and incense, the choice extends to fragrances that suggest forests and smoke.
Fragrances to Explore
Grey Vetiver Eau de Parfum (Tom Ford)
Natural vetiver is central, joined by grapefruit, orange blossom, nutmeg and other notes. Vetiver with citrus brightness and spice.
Silently, Hwyl Eau de Parfum (Aesop)
Vetiver is layered with cedar, frankincense, cypress and thyme. An option for a forest-like scent bringing together woods, resins and herbs.
Find Your Next Fragrance
To explore more fragrances through the notes you enjoy, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes”, then search under “Favorite notes”. Select from the suggestions shown and press “Next”. You can start with notes even if you do not have a favorite fragrance.
