Reine de Saba: The Scent of the Queen of Sheba, an Epic Journey from Yemen to Paris

“For me, the Queen of Sheba is a symbol of beauty. She also embodies perfume itself, because that is what she brought to King Solomon. She is also a messenger of peace.”
— Habib Al-Sowaidi, founder of Reine de Saba​​

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Essential Information

• Brand name: Reine de Saba, French for “Queen of Sheba”
• Established: 2022
• Founder: Habib Al-Sowaidi / حبيب السويدي
• Address: 24 Rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, France​
• Official website: https://www.reinedesabaparis.com​
• Pronunciation note: Reine, meaning “queen,” is rendered “rēnu” in Japanese, and Saba, the kingdom of Sheba, “saba.” The French name is rendered “Rēnu do Saba.”

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The Founder and the Origins of the Brand

A Sense of Smell Nurtured in Yemen’s Flower Fields

The story of Reine de Saba begins in founder Habib Al-Sowaidi’s homeland, Yemen. He spent his childhood with a family that grew jasmine (in Japanese) and cultivated trees producing myrrh and frankincense. A Yemeni podcast introduces his life as a journey “from Yemen’s gardens of ful, or jasmine, and kadi, a type of daphne, to France’s leading perfume factories.”

Yemen, the heartland of the ancient kingdom of Saba, has been known since before the Common Era as a major source of frankincense and myrrh and lies within the so-called frankincense belt. The scent memories that became part of him in childhood would later underpin all his work.

Apprenticeship in Saudi Arabia

After leaving Yemen, Habib began working at the Middle East’s first fragrance company in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, steadily building his career. A 2005 Arab News article identifies him as general manager of A.K. Saeed Company for Trade & Industry, a long-established fragrance trading company in Jeddah. Saudi Arabia is one of the world’s leading perfume-consuming countries and a center of Middle Eastern scent culture. There, Habib developed a deep knowledge of oriental materials such as oud, amber, musk, and rose, and went on to participate in fragrance projects for many brands as an evaluator and concept creator.

According to Arabic-language sources, Habib was involved in work for renowned brands such as Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, and Givenchy, and is also said to have served as personal perfumer to the late Saudi King Fahd bin Abdulaziz. Although his name was widely known within the perfume industry, he remained relatively unfamiliar to ordinary consumers: his was a behind-the-scenes role.

1996: Establishing a Company in Paris and the First Seeds of an Idea

In 1996, Habib established Le Royaume du Parfum International in Paris. Meaning “the kingdom of perfume,” this fragrance house develops high-quality perfumes and packaging designs with leading French perfumers and iconic designers. A Paris base brought him closer to the world’s finest perfumers and helped him broaden his network.​

Notably, the concept for the Reine de Saba collection also began to take shape in 1996. In an interview, Habib explained:

“The idea for a collection inspired by the kingdom of Sheba was also born in 1996. It has now reached maturity, and the perfumers have recognized its significance. The message of peace is needed more than ever. Every perfumer will give it the full measure of their talent.”​

In other words, roughly a quarter of a century passed before the brand actually reached the world. Habib continued nurturing the idea, waiting for the finest team and the right moment.

2022: Finally Born, with Ten Perfumers

In 2022, the long-awaited Reine de Saba was launched. It opened a boutique at 24 rue Marbeuf in Paris’s 8th arrondissement with ten fragrances created by ten star perfumers.

To help shape the brand’s world, Habib enlisted the supervision of Annick Le Guérer, the distinguished French anthropologist and historian of scent. Known for books including Scent: The Mysterious and Essential Powers of Smell, Le Guérer helped establish the brand’s direction from a scholarly perspective. Its official website features these words by her:​

“From the Queen of Sheba’s frankincense route to the Nabataeans, the Roman Empire, and finally the boutique on rue Marbeuf, the history of the land of Sheba has passed down through the centuries and will continue to convey the legacy this emblematic figure left us.”
— Annick Le Guérer, anthropologist and historian of scent

Reine de Saba did not simply aim to make perfumes that smell good. It is an attempt to bring ancient Yemen’s fragrance culture to the world from contemporary Paris, and to recover perfume’s original meaning as the gift of peace the Queen of Sheba offered King Solomon.

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The Brand’s Commitments

A Philosophy of Fragrance: Freedom and Harmony

At the center of Reine de Saba’s philosophy are “authenticity” and “originality,” explicitly stated on its official website. It emphasizes natural materials native to Yemen, including frankincense, myrrh, labdanum, and balsam, while also incorporating advanced modern molecular ingredients.​

“We give perfumers creative freedom while ensuring that the brand’s originality and quality remain uncompromised.”​

The quality and diversity of the perfumers involved are remarkable. The roster includes industry leaders such as Dominique Ropion (IFF) (in Japanese), Alberto Morillas (Firmenich), Maurice Roucel (Symrise) (in Japanese), Olivier Cresp (Firmenich), Anne Flipo (IFF), and Carlos Benaïm (IFF) (in Japanese). Behind this exceptional lineup lie the relationships of trust Habib has built with perfumers over decades. Each was given freedom to create around the theme of the Queen of Sheba, yet the collection retains a sense of unity. A review by Spitzenhaus Parfumerie observes that “despite the varied creations by different perfumers, everything works as a whole, and not a single fragrance feels out of place.”

All the fragrances are composed in France and designed to be unisex.​

Bottle Design: A Late Work by Serge Mansau

The Reine de Saba bottle was designed by the legendary French flacon designer Serge Mansau. Born in Paris in 1930, Mansau called himself a “sculptor of glass” (sculpteur de verre) and created at least 250 perfume bottles over a career of at least 50 years. His client list, including Hermès, Dior, Givenchy, Guerlain, Cartier, and Kenzo, reads like a directory of the perfume world’s great names.

“Creating a perfume is like putting on a play: the fragrance itself is the text, the box is the stage set, and the bottle is the star.”
— Serge Mansau​

Mansau died in February 2019 at the age of 88, but had completed the Reine de Saba bottle design before his death. It is therefore one of the final works of his career.

Made from zamak, a zinc alloy, the cap reflects the fluidity of desert sand while incorporating architectural motifs from Babylon, Egypt, and the kingdom of Sheba. According to the official website, its jeweled design evokes the Queen of Sheba’s headdress. The glass body is made by Luigi Bormioli, the long-established glass manufacturer in Parma, Italy.

The Origins of the Brand’s Logo

The columns in the brand’s logo are taken from the Bar’an Temple in Marib, Yemen, which was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2023. The ruins form part of an ancient temple complex adjacent to Arsh Bilqis, the residence of Bilqis, Queen of Sheba, and symbolize the brand’s spiritual origins.​

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The Fragrance Lineup

The Structure of the Collection

Reine de Saba launched with ten fragrances in 2022 and now offers at least 20 Eaux de Parfum Intense. All are unisex; a full 100 ml bottle generally costs €275, with the special Dhofar line priced at €325. Each fragrance is assigned to a different master perfumer, expressing a distinct aspect of the Queen of Sheba’s legend or ancient Arabia.​

Signature Fragrances and Their Worlds

The following are several particularly emblematic creations from the collection.

Aksoum: Perfumer, Dominique Ropion (IFF)

Named after the ancient Ethiopian kingdom of Aksum, the city of the Queen of Sheba. Ropion explains:

“To create Aksoum, I used sumptuous flowers, mainly tuberose and jasmine. I thought these flowers would evoke the sensual, magnetic aura emanating from this powerful queen.”​

Bergamot, neroli, and petitgrain open into a radiant heart of Egyptian jasmine and tuberose, with sandalwood, patchouli, and musk weaving the lingering trail.​

Ambre Saba: Perfumer, Sophie Labbé (Firmenich)

“This perfume is a mysterious, deep floral ambergris. I also drew inspiration from incense, another iconic material of antiquity, combining it with cutting-edge ingredients in this creation.”​

An opening of pink pepper and frankincense leads to a heart of sambac jasmine and black pepper. The base combines grey amber, Firmenich’s proprietary molecule Dreamwood™, and Madagascan vanilla. Sophie Labbé says Dreamwood’s creamy, lactonic resonance “conveys an image of the peace the Queen of Sheba brought when she visited King Solomon.”​

Reine Makeda: Perfumer, Anne Flipo (IFF)

Makeda is the name of the Queen of Sheba in Ethiopian tradition. Flipo says:

“This project gave me the opportunity to immerse myself in the world of the Queen of Sheba. I first discovered it at an exhibition at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris. It was a world of remarkable olfactory sensitivity, filled with spices, herbs, and incense.”​

Mandarin, iris, ambrette, rose, and jasmine form a succession of noble floral impressions, while sandalwood and Cashmeran create a substantial base.​

Divine Tentation: Perfumer, Mathieu Nardin (Mane)

A spicy amber dedicated to the splendor of the kingdom of Sheba and the fragrance of its land. Top notes of clove, fig, and rum lead to a heart of Sri Lankan cinnamon, Peru balsam, and guaiacwood. Pure Madagascan vanilla, patchouli, and amber leave a warm trail.

Legende de Saba: Perfumer, Maurice Roucel (Symrise)

“The Queen of Sheba was such a powerful presence that I chose the queen of flowers, the rose, to embody her strong personality.”​

A spicy opening of geranium, cumin, and clove reveals a magnificent heart of Damask rose and myrrh, descending into a base of cedarwood, patchouli, leather, and Cashmeran.​

Encens Saba: Perfumer, Alberto Morillas (Firmenich)

A fragrance placing incense, or frankincense, one of the pillars of the brand’s identity, at center stage. A fresh introduction of orange and black pepper passes through a heart of Damask rose and Ambroxan to a base of olibanum resinoid, patchouli, myrrh, and woody leather. It translates the spirit of Yemeni frankincense into a contemporary fragrance.

New Releases in 2024

Three new fragrances were added in 2024.

• Jardins de Saba: Perfumer, Fanny Bal (IFF). A floral depicting the contrast between desert and lush gardens.​
• Mirage Suave: Perfumer, Nelly Hachem-Ruiz (IFF). A mineral, powdery world of myrrh and iris.​
• Rose Extatique: Perfumer, Véronique Nyberg (Mane). A radiant rose fragrance built around a duet of May rose and Turkish rose.​

Further additions include the premium line Dhofar, by perfumer Arturetto Landi of Mane (€325), and the latest release, Saba Désert.

Current Lineup: Principal Fragrances

Fragrance	Perfumer	Company
Aksoum	Dominique Ropion	IFF
Ambre Saba	Sophie Labbé	Firmenich
Balqis Reine de Saba	Nathalie Lorson	Firmenich
Beauté de Reine	Meabh McCurtin	IFF
Dhofar	Arturetto Landi	Mane
Divine Tentation	Mathieu Nardin	Mane
Encens Saba	Alberto Morillas	Firmenich
Esprit Saba	Michel Almairac	Robertet
Extraordinaire Saba	Honorine Blanc	Firmenich
Legende de Saba	Maurice Roucel	Symrise
Merveilleuse Saba	Alex Lee	Mane
Oasis Saba	Domitille Michalon-Bertier	IFF
Oud Oriental Saba	Bruno Jovanovic (in Japanese)	Firmenich
Oud Precieux	Olivier Cresp	Firmenich
Reine de Midi	Paul Guerlain	IFF
Reine Makeda	Anne Flipo	IFF
Sagesse de Salomon	Carlos Benaïm	IFF
Secret de Musc	Jean-Christophe Hérault	IFF

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Incidentally…

• Neighbors with Dominique Ropion: In 2024, when Dominique Ropion launched his own brand, Aphorismes by Dominique Ropion (in Japanese), he opened its boutique at 27 rue Marbeuf in Paris. Reine de Saba’s boutique is at number 24, only a few doors away. Ropion’s new brand also uses a flacon based on Serge Mansau’s designs. The intersecting relationships and aesthetics linking the two brands are intriguing.​
• From the frankincense route to Fortnum & Mason in London: Reine de Saba’s stockists include Fortnum & Mason in London, Jovoy in Paris, and ZHOR Parfums on Via Montenapoleone in Milan. Recognition by the British royal-warrant-holding department store, founded in 1707, offers one indication of the brand’s standing.​

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