Year of birth: 1985
From: Milan, Italy
Name: Luca Maffei
Based at: Atelier Fragranze Milano (AFM)
Connecting the yeasty quality of champagne to iris (in Japanese). Telling a story that rises into the sky from a hint of gasoline, through smoke and amber. Following Luca Maffei’s work, one is struck by the breadth of what perfume can express.
Yet he does more than collect unusual smells. Why is a particular material needed? What feeling should it convey? The story and the construction of the scent are closely connected. From Ragù, inspired by cooking, to classical floral fragrances, the breadth of his style rests on an ability to turn an idea into a perfume that can actually be worn. [1]
Born in Milan in 1985, he grew up with a father working in the fragrance industry. After traditional training in Grasse, he founded the fragrance company Atelier Fragranze Milano (AFM) with his father, Marco Maffei. His wide-ranging work extends from classical florals to experiments with beer CO2 extract, and fragrances exploring gasoline, cooking, and urban landscapes. Different creations won the Independent category of the Art and Olfaction Awards in 2015, 2016, 2023, and 2024, making him one of the perfumers who brought international attention to independent Italian perfumery. [2]
A Life in Perfumery
Early Life
Luca Maffei was born in Milan in 1985 into a family deeply connected to the perfume industry. His father Marco was a manager at international fragrance companies, also working on product development for Italian fashion houses such as Versace and Trussardi. His father brought large quantities of laboratory samples home before client presentations, and conversations about perfumers, accords, and bottles were part of everyday family life. [3]
The 1990s, when he was growing up, were a period he calls “the golden age of Italian perfumery.” Seeing the glamorous perfume industry at close quarters through his father helped shape his later career choice. He did not, however, go straight to perfumery school: after a classical education, he studied economics in Milan. [4]
His earliest clear olfactory memory is his mother’s Chanel (in Japanese) Coco. Whenever she moved, an exuberant, spicy trail of rose, jasmine, clove, and coriander drifted through the air. He says that even in her absence, the fragrance lingering on her clothes gave him a sense of her presence and reassurance. [5]
The smell of the sea also recurs in his memories. Seawater, wooden boats, and the warmth of the sun when boating along the Ligurian coast with his father are connected with a sense of “freedom.” He also speaks of the smell of his younger sister’s skin when she was small as a treasured memory. In a later questionnaire, he again said he loved the smell of the sea in every season. [6]
The Road to Perfumery
His interest in perfume became a sense of vocation through visits to laboratories and conversations with perfumers. He realized that identifying materials, describing them in words, and linking accords to images and memories came naturally to him. Playing with small experimental accords gradually became an absorbing pursuit that he could not get out of his mind. Of the various kinds of work involving perfume, he chose to create fragrances himself. [3]
In 2007, after completing his studies, Maffei formally entered the fragrance industry as an assistant perfumer at the family company. He then went to Grasse for individual training under Françoise Marin, a perfumer and former principal of the Givaudan–Roure perfumery school. He studied everything from the characteristics of natural and synthetic materials to formulas and extraction methods, and gained practical experience at fragrance companies in southern France. [4]
This education drew on the method of Jean Carles (in Japanese), with systematic memorization of materials and study of accords and historic perfumes. Maffei himself recalls learning methods of memorizing ingredients, building accords, and perfume history from Marin. After returning to Italy, he joined M&M Fragrances and worked with Italian master perfumer Maurizio Cerizza. His studies with Marin taught him how to handle materials, and the workplace alongside Cerizza helped him turn that knowledge into creations. For him, the techniques learned in France and the work of creating from a base in Italy were part of a continuous path. [4]
Asked whether a “nose” is born or made, he answers “both.” His family environment directed his attention toward scent early on, but he also believes that the sense of smell can be trained daily, like the body in exercise, and that repetition improves the ability to distinguish odors. [7]
Career Development
After working as an assistant from 2007, he created Cuoio Nobile for Pineider in 2011. The fragrance was shortlisted in the Accademia del Profumo’s “Best Niche Perfume” category the following year, 2012. In 2013, he entered Iris Magnifica in Esxence’s competition for perfumers under 30, where it was selected as one of five finalists. Cerizza encouraged him to enter. His later choice of this event when asked about memories of Esxence also suggests that it was an important early career milestone. [4]
In 2011, he founded Atelier Fragranze Milano with his father Marco. An independent fragrance house working across perfume development, composition, and manufacture, the company established a structure in which Marco led the industrial side and Luca the creative side. In 2020, it brought its creative center, offices, laboratories, and production facilities together at a renovated former bakery in Milan. [8]
In 2014, he became a member of the Société Française des Parfumeurs, and in the same year was nominated by the Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte for Les Talents du Luxe et de la Création. The 2020 edition of Maestro d’Arte e Mestiere’s “Gold Book” included him as a master in the field of Artistic Perfumery. [4]
From 2018, AFM developed a collaboration with French perfumer Antoine Lie, which also led to joint creations with Maffei. In The Italian Artists of Via Solferino, The Courtyards of Castello Sforzesco, Cupola, and other works, the two bring Italian subjects together with contemporary molecular fragrance materials. [9]
His work is not limited to bottled perfume. He has also created an olfactory installation for Venini at HOMI Milano and fragrances for spaces including the Museo Ferrari in Maranello, Vivienne Westwood’s Milan showroom, Cosmoprof Bologna, and MIDO Milano. [4]
His main awards and honors are as follows.
- 2012: Cuoio Nobile was shortlisted for the Accademia del Profumo’s “Best Niche Perfume.” [4]
- 2013: Iris Magnifica was selected as one of five finalists in Esxence’s competition for young perfumers. [4]
- 2014: Elected to the Société Française des Parfumeurs. Nominated for Les Talents du Luxe et de la Création. [4]
- 2015: Black Pepper & Sandalwood won the Independent category of the Art and Olfaction Awards. [2]
- 2016: Néa won the Independent category of the same awards. [10]
- 2020: Selected for Maestro d’Arte e Mestiere in the Artistic Perfumery field. [4]
- 2023: Ierofante won the Independent category of the Art and Olfaction Awards. [11]
- 2023: The Italian Artists of Via Solferino, co-created with Antoine Lie, won the women’s fragrance category of the Accademia del Profumo’s “Miglior Profumo Made in Italy.” [12]
- 2024: Amnesia Rose won the Independent category of the Art and Olfaction Awards. [13]
Perfumery Philosophy and Style
Maffei’s work can be read as a form of “translation,” turning stories into scent. L’Attesa expresses the time spent waiting for a lover through iris and a hint of champagne; Ierofante represents an inner awakening through a progression of gasoline, smoke, and amber. He gives abstract feelings and scenes a form that can be followed through smell. This is not a title he claims for himself, but one way of connecting his creations. Something comes across even without an explanation, and learning the background makes one want to smell again. Looking at that bridge makes the breadth of his style easier to understand. [1]
Dialogue with the client is central to creation. At AFM, everything from the choice of ingredients to the emotions a fragrance conveys is considered together with the client, and each creation is tailored to the individual commission. Clients extend beyond niche perfume and fashion brands to skincare, body care, and home fragrance. Even when the application changes, the approach of entrusting people’s intentions to scent remains the same. [14]
For him, the conditions for a good perfume are “harmony, creativity, and passion.” He prefers harmony and simplicity to an insistently forceful scent, creating depth by setting spices and modern molecules against natural floral notes and warm, creamy woods. He is particularly fond of rose and sandalwood; in another questionnaire, he named iris as his favorite material and rose as his favorite flower. [7]
In practice, he does not use thousands of materials indiscriminately. He explains that for his everyday creative work, he uses a palette of around 200–300 materials that suit his sensibility. [3]
His interest in materials extends beyond their olfactory character to their background. In 2024, he began collaborating with Italian agricultural producers, working with materials rooted in their places of origin, such as Iris florentina and bergamot. What matters to him is knowing where and how they are grown, and who sustains their quality. It is striking how he extends Made in Italy beyond the image of a creation into a relationship with the places where its ingredients are produced. [14]
Nor does he set natural and synthetic materials in opposition. While naturals offer complexity and qualities specific to their origins, synthetics extend their characteristics and push the limits of expression. Discussing Milan’s old and new architecture, he described their relationship with the words, “nature signs, and synthesis enhances it.” [15]
His working day begins early. In the morning, when his sense of smell is rested, he checks the previous day’s trials and usually works on three or four projects in parallel. Rather than judging a written formula immediately, he leaves it for 24 hours so that the materials can meld and the structure can develop. Alongside technique and creativity, curiosity is essential, and he continues to research the client’s DNA and trends in new materials. [3]
Formulas generally contain 35–90 ingredients, which are added to alcohol after weighing. He first checks them on blotters, then, after the perfumer’s approval, evaluates their development on skin before finally submitting them to the client. Some trials are not selected in competitive briefs, but he sees that as an opportunity to hone his skills while encountering other perfumers’ different interpretations. [16]
Collaboration is also essential to understanding his work. For Carthusia’s “Intenso” in 2025, he created three fragrances with Antoine Lie: Basilico, Mirto, and Ginestra. Their shared subjects are Capri and the Mediterranean. From there, each moves in a different direction: freshness, warm sensuality, or an enveloping floral expression. [14]
Signature Creations and Their Backgrounds
Black Pepper & Sandalwood: Acca Kappa (2014)
This was a fragrance he called a “personal favorite” in 2015. Inspired by India, he imagined milky-white sandalwood wrapped in a veil of Eastern spices. It begins with bergamot, elemi, wormwood, saffron, clove, fir, and nutmeg, passes through Damask rose, black pepper, cinnamon, and oud, and reaches patchouli, Haitian vetiver, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, cypriol, and black musk. [17]
The fragrance won the Independent category of the 2015 Art and Olfaction Awards. What deserves attention here is that a creation’s source of inspiration need not be the same as its brand’s place of origin. Sandalwood and spices imagined through India are shaped for the long-established Italian house Acca Kappa. “Translation” here is not simply reproducing the smell of a place, but arranging it in a form appropriate to the commissioned perfume. [2]
Néa: Jul et Mad Paris (2015)
Néa takes as its subject the golden age of the Byzantine Empire and its sumptuous visual world. It is a rich amber floral layering dates, pomegranate, wormwood, palm leaf, and black pepper with prune, Damask rose, jasmine sambac, caramel, vanilla, tonka, benzoin, Cashmeran, Ambroxan, patchouli, and musk. [18]
The brand’s founders recall meeting Maffei at a time when they found the existing proposals lacking, and receiving the first trials of Garuda and Néa about two weeks after the commission. Néa won the Independent category of the 2016 Art and Olfaction Awards; the brand itself later positioned the fragrance as bringing a new direction to gourmand perfumery. [19]
L’Attesa: Masque Milano (2016)
L’Attesa is an iris fragrance depicting “waiting,” particularly the moments just before a lover arrives. Using Italian iris absolute (in Japanese) and Italian and French orris butters, it creates an iris axis running through the fragrance’s entire development. [1]
The technical focus was not the usual aldehydic or spicy “bubbles,” but recreating the bitterness, powderiness, and yeasty quality of champagne just after opening. Maffei discovered Charabot’s beer CO2 extract and used its bitter, powdery character derived from hops. The design reinforces the opening of Italian orris with a high concentration of irones, building a bridge from the bitter powderiness of yeast into iris. [20]
The three iris materials each have a role. The sharp, powdery aspect of the Italian absolute brings out the yeasty quality of the opening. Meanwhile, the rich, butter-like Italian and French materials enrich the flower’s heart and smoothly connect it to a finish of milky woods, leather, and musk. Champagne is not merely a decoration at the beginning, but an introduction leading into iris. By linking the textures of the materials, a scene of “waiting” becomes the unfolding of a fragrance. [1]
Ierofante: Parfums Quartana (2022)
Ierofante is a perfume that depicts the inner awakening described by creative director Joseph Quartana through the metaphor of a rocket launch. Gasoline and suede portray the moment before ignition; pyrolyzed styrax, frankincense, and smoky leather depict liftoff; Cashmeran, golden amber, vetiver, and myrrh represent arrival. [21]
Maffei expressed “sacredness” through woody, spicy, and leather accords and contrasts, seeking an aura that would carry the wearer into a mystical dimension. The technical core is a structure that rises from a heavy, damp gasoline accord through smoke into progressively lighter amber. It won the Independent category of the 2023 Art and Olfaction Awards. [22]
Amnesia Rose: Aedes de Venustas
This rose fragrance was developed over a long period to transfer the rich, eclectic atmosphere of the Aedes de Venustas shop itself into a bottle. Moroccan rose absolute and Bulgarian rose essence are set against cypriol, saffron, and Bushman’s Candle, threading dry woods and spice through the flower’s rounded fullness. [23]
Maffei’s aim was a rose that would not lose its presence over time. Rather than copying a single fresh flower, he brought the shop’s flowers, furnishings, and atmosphere together in one perfume. With rose as the protagonist, the creation can be seen as an attempt to depict the memory of a place as well. In 2024, it won the Independent category of the Art and Olfaction Awards, bringing Maffei his fourth win at those awards. [23]
Milan as an Ingredient
A defining feature of Maffei’s creativity is his way of breaking Italy down into specific colors, architecture, neighborhoods, and materials, rather than treating it as an abstract branding symbol. He describes Made in Italy as “a distinctive way of seeing the world and beauty,” seeking to turn style, luxury, and creativity into an olfactory identity. [7]
In The Italian Artists of Via Solferino, he represented the yellow, pink, and white colors that evoke art-supply shops in Brera through osmanthus, peony, and magnolia. Adding the energy of yuzu, maté, and red ginger, along with the sheen of patchouli and suede, he and Antoine Lie composed a scene of Sunday morning light falling between the buildings of Via Solferino. [24]
His favorite smells in Milan include the osmanthus in bloom in the Guastalla gardens, the damp Navigli, and mysterious courtyards. He loves both old Liberty-style buildings and high-rises, likening the former to the warmth of natural essential oils and the latter to the avant-garde quality of synthetic molecules. This view of the city is also his method itself: rather than opposing tradition and technology, he makes them coexist in a single fragrance. [9]
AFM and Human-Centered Perfumery
As an independent fragrance company, AFM values relationships that allow brand creators and perfumers to develop their work directly together. Rather than valuing scale alone, it emphasizes dialogue and a craftsmanlike attention to finishing details. For whom is a perfume being created, and with what intentions? Sharing that question with the client and developing a scent that expresses the brand’s individuality are stated elements of the company’s approach. [8]
AFM’s “Human Centric Perfumery” places human emotions and dialogue at the center of perfume-making. Even when consulting market statistics or predictive models, it begins with human intuition, conversation, and the client’s story. In his explanation, a formula translates an idea in the mind into materials and quantities. Technology for testing the blend is indispensable, but before it comes the intention of what to portray. The question of what perfume to create is not left to numbers alone. [16]
He sees niche perfumery as a field in which risks can be taken. Rather than ignoring market movements, he reads trends in ingredients and consumer tastes while creating individuality through unfamiliar combinations, bold doses such as ten times the usual amount, and new extracts. Examples he cites include coffee absolute, cocoa absolute, ginger flower, and new aroma chemicals. [25]
By the Way…
- The perfume that taught him the pleasure of wearing fragrance: Asked in a 2015 questionnaire about the first perfume he wore, he answered Prada Infusion d’Iris. He recalled feeling elegant when he wore it. It is a memory that seems to make him stand a little straighter, fitting for someone who names iris as a favorite material. [6]
- The family at the roots of his sense of smell: His mother’s Coco, the sea he visited with his father, and his little sister’s skin. His olfactory memories preserve not just ingredient names but the people beside him and the feelings of the moment. His search for stories in his creations also makes sense when read alongside those memories. [15]
- Favorite creations of his own: In 2015, he named Black Pepper & Sandalwood; in 2023, he named Cedro di Diamante as a favorite. [15]
- Favorite smells: The sea, the laboratory, and saffron-scented Milanese risotto. The smell he dislikes is “the smell of fear.” [6]
- A perfume that influenced him: He named Guerlain (in Japanese) Insolence as a creation he wished he had made, praising it for fully expressing women’s sensuality. [6]
- Ideal subjects: He names wet asphalt, rain, and the smell of a new car as “natural or environmental smells I would like to put in a bottle.” [7]
- Aesthetic sensibility: Everything that stimulates the senses, from art exhibitions and films to meals at starred restaurants, is a source of ideas. He describes himself as “an aesthete whose greatest inspiration is beauty.” [7]
- A collecting habit: He has collected coins, stamps, sneakers, records, and other things. He says he particularly enjoys the process of searching for a hard-to-find individual item. [6]
- Favorite bottle: In the questionnaire, he chose the original Diorissimo, described as designed by Christian Dior in Baccarat crystal. He is drawn to the cut crystal and the golden bouquet-shaped cap. [6]
- Advice on olfactory training: Practice every day and pay attention to the smells around you throughout the day. He likens this to physical exercise. [6]
Fragrance Creations
His principal creations are listed chronologically below. Beyond the award winners, they show his work extending in many directions, including flowers, woods, citrus, and gourmands. Co-perfumers are listed for joint creations. Years generally indicate release dates, with notes where they refer to creation dates or differ between sources. Since perfume database entry counts also vary with concentrations and reissues, this table does not represent a total count of all his works. Fragrantica’s list of works / Parfumo’s list of works
| Year | Brand | Fragrance | Co-perfumer / Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2009 | Washington Tremlett | Chelsea Garden | |
| 2011 / 2012 | Alyssa Ashley | Ambre Gris | Release year differs between sources |
| 2011 | Pineider | Cuoio Nobile (year of creation) | |
| 2012 | Alyssa Ashley | Oud pour Elle | |
| 2012 | Alyssa Ashley | Oud pour Lui | |
| 2012 | Perris Monte Carlo (in Japanese) | Oud Imperial | |
| 2013 | Acca Kappa | Virginia Rose | |
| 2013 | Perris Monte Carlo | Rose de Taif | |
| 2013 | Atelier Fragranze Milano / Esxence | Iris Magnifica | |
| 2014 | Acca Kappa | Black Pepper & Sandalwood | |
| 2014 | Acca Kappa | Tilia Cordata | |
| 2014 | Acca Kappa | Vaniglia Fior di Mandorlo | |
| 2014 | Gabriella Chieffo | Hystera | |
| 2014 | Gabriella Chieffo | Ragù | |
| 2014 | Silvia Monti – Profumi d’Artista | Tintura Spiritosa (a cucchiaini) | |
| 2014 | Womo | Blue Linen | |
| 2014 | Womo | Red Velvet | |
| 2015 | Carthusia | Essence of the Park | |
| 2015 | Houbigant (in Japanese) | Cologne Intense | |
| 2015 | Jul et Mad Paris | Garuda | |
| 2015 | Jul et Mad Paris | Néa | |
| 2015 | Onyrico | Empireo | |
| 2015 | Onyrico | Rossa Bohème | |
| 2015 | Onyrico | Unguentum | |
| 2015 | Perris Monte Carlo | Oud Imperial Extrait | |
| 2015 | Perris Monte Carlo | Rose de Taif Extrait | |
| 2015 | Pupa | I’m | |
| 2015 | Replay | Stone for Him | |
| 2016 | Gabriella Chieffo | Taersìa | |
| 2016 | Jul et Mad Paris | Secrets du Paradis Rouge | |
| 2016 | Laboratorio Olfattivo | MyLO | |
| 2016 | Laboratorio Olfattivo | Nun | |
| 2016 | Masque Milano | L’Attesa | |
| 2016 | Parco 1923 | Parco 1923 | |
| 2017 | Carthusia | Gelsomini di Capri | |
| 2017 | Carthusia | Terra Mia | |
| 2017 | Comporta Perfumes | Muda | |
| 2017 | Comporta Perfumes | Palafítico | |
| 2017 | Histoires de Parfums (in Japanese) | Irrévérent | |
| 2017 | Histoires de Parfums | This is not a Blue Bottle 1.2 | |
| 2017 | Houbigant | Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret EDP | |
| 2017 | Jacques Fath | Les Frivolités | |
| 2017 | Jacques Fath | Lilas Exquis | |
| 2017 | Jacques Fath | L’Orée du Bois | |
| 2017 | Jacques Fath | Rosso Epicureo | |
| 2017 | Jul et Mad Paris | Bella Donna | |
| 2017 | Laboratorio Olfattivo | Vanhera | |
| 2017 | Mendittorosa | Archetipo | |
| 2017 | Naso di Raza | Giuseppe | |
| 2017 | Nobile 1942 | 1001 | |
| 2017 | Olibere | Savannah’s Heart | |
| 2017 / 2020 | Pauline Rochas / Coolife | N°6 Genie in a Bottle / Le Sixième Parfum | First released under the Coolife name in 2017 |
| 2017 / 2020 | Pauline Rochas / Coolife | N°7 Bliss in a Bottle / Le Septième Parfum | First released under the Coolife name in 2017 |
| 2018 | Brera6 | 60mph Club | |
| 2018 | Brera6 | Liberty | |
| 2018 | Brera6 | No-Name | |
| 2018 | Extrait d’Atelier | Maître Céramiste | |
| 2018 | Familia Familia | Deal | |
| 2018 | Familia Familia | Family In Love | |
| 2018 | Familia Familia | Family In Love Baby | |
| 2018 | Familia Familia | Wake Me Up | |
| 2018 | Histoires de Parfums | This Is Not A Blue Bottle 1.5 | |
| 2018 | Houbigant | Bois Mystique EDP | |
| 2018 | Houbigant | Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret EDP Extrême | |
| 2018 | Jacques Fath | Le Loden | |
| 2018 | Jacques Fath | Velours Boisé | |
| 2018 | Le Monarque | Le Monarque II | |
| 2018 | Le Monarque | Le Monarque IV | |
| 2018 | Olibere | Chemical Love | |
| 2018 | Olibere | Dangerous Rose | |
| 2018 | Olibere | Le Jardin de la Reine | |
| 2018 | Olibere | Le Jardin de Madame Chan | |
| 2018 | Olibere | Leather Attraction | |
| 2018 | Parco 1923 | Scarpetta di Venere | |
| 2018 | Perris Monte Carlo | Bergamotto di Calabria | |
| 2018 | Perris Monte Carlo | Cedro di Diamante | |
| 2018 / 2019 | I Fiori del Male | Tubéreuse Maléfique | The year differs between sources |
| 2019 | Onyrico | Ingenium | Some sources give 2015 |
| 2019 | Coreterno | Catharsis | |
| 2019 | Coreterno | Hierba Nera | |
| 2019 | Coreterno | Punk Motel | |
| 2019 | Houbigant | Mon Boudoir | |
| 2019 | I Fiori del Male | Iris Obscur | |
| 2019 | Naso di Raza | Esmeralda | |
| 2019 | UERMI | NU Leather | |
| 2019 | Isabey | Prends-moi (take me) | Some sources give 2020 |
| 2020 | Astrophil & Stella | Amberlievable | |
| 2020 | Cigno Nero | Anima Libera | |
| 2020 | Cigno Nero | Forza Suprema | |
| 2020 | Mendittorosa | Athanor | |
| 2020 | Salvatore Ferragamo (in Japanese) | Cupola | Antoine Lie |
| 2021 | Acca Kappa | Volata | |
| 2021 | Alyssa Ashley | Cedro Musk EDP | |
| 2021 | Astrophil & Stella | A Night at the Opera | |
| 2021 | Astrophil & Stella | The Iris Way | |
| 2021 | Carthusia | A’mmare | |
| 2021 | Coreterno | Mystic Sugar | |
| 2021 | Coreterno | No Sleep | |
| 2021 | Gallivant | Naples | |
| 2021 | Maison Tahité | Vicious Cacao | |
| 2021 | Mendittorosa | Daymon | |
| 2021 | Pupa | Vamp! (Pink) | |
| 2021 | Pupa | Vamp! (Red) | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Bergamote Twist | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Cédrat Gingembre | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Ganja Oud | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Lys Nobilis | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Noisette Iris | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Revelo | |
| 2022 | Jul et Mad Paris | Vetiver Cuir | |
| 2022 | Olibanum (in Japanese). | Ambrette | |
| 2022 | Olibanum. | Iris | |
| 2022 | Olibanum. | Opoponax | |
| 2022 | Olibanum. | Osmanthus | |
| 2022 | Parco 1923 | Riserva Regia | |
| 2022 | Parfums Quartana | Ierofante | |
| 2022 | Trussardi | The Italian Artists of Via Solferino | Antoine Lie |
| 2022 | Trussardi | The Courtyards of Castello Sforzesco | Antoine Lie |
| 2023 | Aedes de Venustas | Amnesia Rose | AFM’s portfolio page gives 2022 |
| 2023 | Houbigant | Ambre des Abysses | |
| 2023 | Houbigant | Oud Or | |
| 2023 | Houbigant | Patchouli Sauvage | |
| 2023 | Laboratorio Olfattivo | Miss-U | |
| 2023 | Laboratorio Olfattivo | Tiglio Mirabilis | |
| 2023 | Sãlum Parfums | Abyss Rose | |
| 2023 | Sãlum Parfums | Amber Wave | |
| 2023 | Sãlum Parfums | Delicious Bay | |
| 2023 | Sãlum Parfums | Marine Oud | |
| 2023 | Zoologist (in Japanese) | Harvest Mouse | |
| 2023 | Private Mood | Velvet Coco | |
| 2024 | Perris Portofino | Bel Sole | Some sources give 2023 |
| 2024 | Perris Portofino | Blu Profondo | Some sources give 2023 |
| 2024 | Perris Portofino | Fiori di Mare | Some sources give 2023 |
| 2024 | Perris Portofino | In Riviera | Some sources give 2023 |
| 2024 | Coreterno | Oceanoir | |
| 2024 | Houbigant | Ambre Rubis | |
| 2024 | Houbigant | Rose du Désert | |
| 2024 | Houbigant | Vanille Impériale | |
| 2024 | Jul et Mad Paris | Callisto | |
| 2024 | Marc Gebauer | Vendetta | |
| 2024 | OHTOP | Half Moon | |
| 2024 | Replay | Green on Me for Man | |
| 2024 | Śasva | Forbidden Words Bombay Gourmand | |
| 2025 | Carthusia | Intenso di Basilico | Antoine Lie |
| 2025 | Carthusia | Intenso di Ginestra | Antoine Lie |
| 2025 | Carthusia | Intenso di Mirto | Antoine Lie |
| 2025 | Coreterno | Godimenta | |
| 2025 | Coreterno | Hypnorange | |
| 2025 | CZAR | LINK X Luca Maffei | |
| 2025 | Marc Gebauer | Cocoon | |
| 2025 | Mutis – Nueva Granada | Bolero | |
| 2025 | Mutis – Nueva Granada | Mambo | |
| 2025 | Olfactive Traveller | Pelle Viola | |
| 2025 | Perris Monte Carlo | Balsamir | Antoine Lie |
| 2025 | Spiritica | Yuzuyakuza | |
| Unknown | Houbigant | Bois Mystique Extrait |
L’Attesa, Ierofante, and Amnesia Rose may look separate in a chronological table, but connections emerge when we consider the relationship between ideas and materials. What matters is not only what something smells of, but why that smell is there. That is precisely where the interest in reading Maffei’s perfumes lies.
References
- Masque Milano, Noses
- 2nd annual Art and Olfaction AWARDS
- The work of the perfume maker: Nose Interview | Alyssa Ashley
- Luca Maffei
- Luca Maffei perfumer
- Luca Maffei: Perfume Questionnaire
- Nice to meet you! I’m a “nose”! – Niche & Co.
- About
- L’intervista di Club Milano al naso profumiere Luca Maffei | IT
- The Art and Olfaction Awards › 2016 Winners
- THE WINNERS of The 9th ART & OLFACTION AWARDS ~ Art Books Events ~ Fragrantica
- PREMIO ACCADEMIA DEL PROFUMO 2023: I VINCITORI
- THE WINNERS of The 10th ART & OLFACTION AWARDS (2024) ~ Art Books Events ~ Fragrantica
- the fragrance of my summers in Forte
- “When you smell it, it unfolds like a story” — Luca Maffei, Italian perfumer
- Profumeria e dati analitici: l’intelligenza artificiale potrà mai vincere la creatività umana?
- Black Pepper & Sandalwood Acca Kappa perfume – a fragrance for women and men 2014
- Néa Jul et Mad Paris perfume – a fragrance for women 2015
- Interview with Julien and Madalina Blanchard, souls of the brand JUL ET MAD.
- Masque Milano L’Atessa Review – ÇaFleureBon Perfume Blog
- PARFUMS QUARTANA Ierofante extrait de parfum
- Quartana – Ierofante | Atelier Fragranze Milano
- Amnesia Rose – Eau de Parfum
- Trussardi – Le Vie di Milano – The Italian Artists of Via Solferino
- Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): “Niche perfumery allows me to take risks” – Nez the olfactory cultural movement
Works Lists and Supplementary Sources
- Luca Maffei – Egoist Royal Parfums
- Manifest – brera6 perfumes
- Jul et Mad LES WHITE – Néa, Nin-Shar and Garuda – ÇaFleureBon
- Italian artisan excellence acknowledgment: MAM
- Trussardi – Le Vie di Milano The Italian Artists of Via Solferino
- Trussardi – Le Vie di Milano – The Courtyards of Castello Sforzesco
- Salvatore Ferragamo – Cupola – Atelier Fragranze Milano
- Possibly of interest
- Our Special Thanks – Jul et Mad Paris
- Unveiling the Scented World of Joseph Quartana
- Fragrantica: Luca Maffei works list
- Parfumo: Luca Maffei works list
- Parfumo: Taersìa
- Parfumo: Balsamir
- Forte Magazine: Luca Maffei interview, May 2025

