A. Since there are different kinds of fragrance materials, let us begin with a broad classification. Fragrance materials can be divided into two main types: natural and synthetic.
Natural fragrance materials are aromatic raw materials extracted from flowers and trees in nature, or from animals’ glands and excretions.
These plants are not simply those growing around us: growers in various regions supply them to fragrance companies and brands. Large brands such as Chanel enter into contracts with growers to secure a stable, long-term supply of high-quality fragrance materials. What makes growing aromatic plants particularly difficult is the need to maintain the same quality year after year, avoid a decline in quality caused by competition, and continue cultivation while passing the work on to the next generation. The quality of the materials produced by individual growers also varies greatly according to the region and variety. At brands such as Guerlain and Hermès, in-house perfumers sometimes travel around the world to inspect fragrance materials firsthand.
Natural animal-derived fragrance materials, on the other hand, are now very rarely used because of threats of extinction, animal cruelty, and a lack of stability.
As the word “extraction” suggests, the raw material is not used as it is; its aromatic constituents are removed chemically by one method or another. The four main methods are expression, steam distillation, solvent extraction, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction (enfleurage is omitted because it is not widely used today).
- Expression
This method is used mainly to extract citrus essences and was once performed by hand. Today, mechanical cold expression is used, making this an important method for extracting the juicy, fresh scent of the fruit.
Read more - Steam Distillation
Used since the tenth century or earlier, this method separates the essence from the raw material by exposing it to hot steam and reaching the boiling point of the essential oil. Many raw materials are extracted as essential oils by this method, although it is not used for certain delicate materials, such as those sensitive to heat.
Read more - Solvent Extraction
Used since the eighteenth century, this method places the raw material in a chemical known as an organic solvent, dissolving the essence. The dissolved essence is then exposed to alcohol and low pressure to obtain an essential oil. Its strengths are the ability to process large amounts of raw material at once and its suitability even for materials sensitive to high temperatures.
Read more - Supercritical Carbon Dioxide Extraction
Popular since the 1980s, this extraction method takes advantage of how easy it is to use carbon dioxide’s critical point, a state in which it is both a liquid and a gas. Because this critical point is at room temperature and low pressure, it allows essential oils to be obtained with the least alteration or degradation of the raw material.
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Plants are grown and harvested (animal-derived materials are collected) → Fragrance companies and others extract the essential oils → The materials reach the perfumer
Synthetic fragrance materials are basically created in a laboratory (perhaps the difference from natural materials is that production begins right from the outset). Of course, they do not come from nothing: particular fragrance materials are made by combining chemicals or isolating constituents from substances that already exist. Unlike natural plants, they can often be supplied reliably in large quantities, and many new fragrance materials are created every year.
Does that help explain how fragrance materials are made? Their respective advantages, disadvantages, and other points are summarized below, so please take a look.
