Atelier des Ors: French Haute Parfumerie in Pursuit of the Art of Gold and Fragrance

“Perfume, per fumum, meaning ‘through smoke,’ has always been associated with the sacred. Like gold in every civilization, perfume symbolizes the pursuit of perfection and the search for the absolute. These are the values we uphold, bringing them together within a single fragrance.”
—Jean-Philippe Clermont, founder of Atelier des Ors​

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Essential Information

• Brand name: Atelier des Ors, French for “the workshop of gold”
• Founded: 2015
• Founder: Jean-Philippe Clermont​
• Principal perfumer: Marie Salamagne, of dsm-firmenich​
• Based in: Villa Primerose, Grasse, France, a historic building constructed in 1886​​
• Official website: https://www.atelierdesors.com/

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The Founder and the Origins of the Brand

A Childhood in Brittany: The Beginnings of an Aesthetic Sensibility

Jean-Philippe Clermont spent a peaceful childhood in the countryside of Brittany, in northwestern France. The Breton landscape, where storms hurl immense waves against the shore and the sky merges with the gray sea, remains a formative landscape in his imagination.​

“I grew up in the French countryside in Brittany, with a quiet, happy, simple childhood. Even now, there is nothing I love more than walking along the Breton coast and watching storms drive enormous swells against the shoreline.”
—Jean-Philippe Clermont​

His mother was a painter, and that artistic environment nurtured his sensibility for the pursuit of beauty. His grandparents ran a business dealing in fine glass and porcelain tableware, and the young Jean-Philippe would reportedly spend hours listening to explanations of how objects were made and their histories. This experience instilled his respect for the craftsmanship behind beautiful objects.​

His interest in making things and in commerce had already begun to emerge in childhood: he once tried to sell handmade shell necklaces to his parents’ friends. Although the business was unsuccessful, the impulse to create beautiful things and bring them to others is an intriguing early sign of what would lead him to establish his brand.​

Encounters with Other Cultures: The Caribbean, Lebanon, and Dubai

When he was 17, his parents moved to Fort-de-France in the French West Indies, changing the course of his life. The aromas filling Caribbean markets, including bois d’Inde, colombo powder (a type of curry blend), cinnamon, coconut, and green citrus, stimulated his youthful sensibilities.​

After studying international business, he traveled through Asia and the Middle East, living in Singapore and Lebanon, where he spent two years in Beirut. In Lebanon, he was captivated by the scents of jasmine garlands sold on the street, oriental pastries, and za’atar.​

After returning to Paris, Jean-Philippe became involved in the business of premium hand-rolled cigars. Their rising blue smoke and aroma, and the process of pursuing the finest blend, were remarkably similar to perfume making.​

“I was captivated by the seductive power of cigars, their mysterious blue flame, and their swirling aromatic smoke…”
—Jean-Philippe Clermont​

Work subsequently took him back to the Middle East, where he settled in Dubai for around ten years. During his time there, he was strongly drawn to the powerful sillage, or trail of fragrance, characteristic of the region.

A Fateful Meeting: Encountering Marie Salamagne

While living in Dubai, Jean-Philippe began to imagine creating a perfume brand. The catalyst was a dinner with a bottle designer, the moment the door to the fragrance industry first opened to him.​

Then came a decisive encounter. Over a meal with a fine fragrance director at Firmenich (in Japanese), he was told:

“You really must meet Marie Salamagne. I am certain she is the perfect person for your project.”​

At their meeting in Paris, the two spoke about travel, Dubai, and children, but barely about perfume. Yet Jean-Philippe recalls that they “connected immediately.” Marie, for her part, had also been captivated by the brand brief she received through the Dubai team in 2012.​

“Jean-Philippe’s brief won me over at first sight. I felt a deep connection.”
—Marie Salamagne​

For Marie, too, the industry in 2015 was one in which projects for major companies took precedence, and fragrance houses rarely showed interest in emerging niche brands. But this brand’s vision, with flecks of gold in its bottles, sumptuous ingredients, and an Art Deco aesthetic, stirred her curiosity.​

“We spoke the same language, yet our backgrounds were completely different. I found enormous pleasure in drawing inspiration from unfamiliar stories of other places.”
—Marie Salamagne​

Marie was given the freedom to use the finest raw materials. Over three years, the first five creations took shape: Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert, and Aube Rubis.

On December 23, 2014, the renowned Parisian niche perfumery JOVOY became the first partner to introduce Atelier des Ors’ creations to the world. The brand was then officially launched in 2015.​

To Villa Primerose: A Return to Grasse

Born in Dubai, the brand eventually relocated to southern France, putting down roots in Grasse, the world’s perfume capital. Its present home, Villa Primerose, is a neoclassical mansion built in 1886, a historic building that has witnessed the flourishing of Grasse’s perfume industry.

“Our new home at Villa Primerose bears witness to this exploration. Here, fragrance becomes an immersive, multisensory experience.”​

In 2018, the perfumery skills of Grasse were inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Atelier des Ors is actively committed to preserving and communicating that heritage. The brand also participates in Grasse Expertise, an organization dedicated to safeguarding and promoting local craftsmanship.​

The Tenth Anniversary: A Golden Milestone in New York

The brand celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2025. A commemorative event took place in Manhattan, New York, where Jean-Philippe personally led a masterclass in gold-leaf gilding.​

“Reaching our tenth year is both humbling and energizing. Novae Vanilla is a tribute to the past and, at the same time, a creation with which to step boldly into the future.”
—Jean-Philippe Clermont​

Alongside the unveiling of the anniversary fragrance Novae Vanilla, a limited edition of Lune Féline, one of the brand’s founding creations, was released in a design featuring the seahorse emblem. An evening party at the Faena Hotel brought together perfume enthusiasts, editors, and creators to celebrate the brand’s first decade.

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The Brand’s Commitments

Gold: A Symbol of an Eternal Quest

As its name suggests, gold, or in French, is part of Atelier des Ors’ very DNA. Every bottle contains flakes of 24-carat gold leaf. Shimmering in the light, these golden particles are also described as “stardust.”

Gold is not merely decorative: it symbolizes sunlight, energy, and radiance. Since ancient times, perfume, per fumum or “through smoke,” and gold have both been used to communicate with the sacred. Incense carried prayers to the gods through its rising smoke, while gold symbolized the divine in many civilizations. Bringing those two elements together in a single fragrance is fundamental to the brand’s philosophy.​

The Seahorse: An Emblem Linking Gold, Fragrance, and Memory

The seahorse, or hippocampe, in the brand’s logo carries three layers of symbolism.​

• The hallmark for 24-carat gold: At the French mint, Monnaie de Paris, the hallmark certifying the purity of 24-carat gold takes the form of a seahorse.
• The hippocampus: The part of the brain responsible for memories of colors, smells, and emotions.
• The mythical creature of Greek mythology: At once familiar and otherworldly, mysterious and majestic.

The emblem thus unites three central elements: gold, perfume, and memory.​

Bottle Design: The Flacon as a Jewel

The bottle design emerged from a collaboration with the Parisian design agency Centdegrés. The agency has worked comprehensively on the brand’s creative universe, from its visual identity, bottles, and packaging to its website and commercial spaces.​

The sunburst rays engraved into the glass pay homage to the intricate crystal-cutting techniques used in haute parfumerie during the Art Deco era. Manufactured by Italy’s Zignago Vetro, the glass captures the light and beautifully enhances the perfume’s golden liquid. The black zamak cap was developed by Quadpack and features a glossy lacquered finish with a discreetly debossed logo. The outer box combines a soft-touch material, a magnetic lid, and gold hot stamping against a chestnut-colored background, creating a luxurious experience from the moment it is opened.

A Philosophy of Perfumery: Freedom and Co-Creation

Jean-Philippe and Marie’s relationship is one of co-creation built on a long-term partnership. For ten years or more, Marie has been the brand’s de facto house perfumer, creating every fragrance. Their mutual understanding is such that Jean-Philippe says, “When she presents a trial, she can tell whether I like it simply by looking at my face.”​

Marie’s creative process begins in solitude. She closes the door, takes out a notebook, and reflects. She uses three notebooks for different purposes: the largest connects scents with materials, the second records studies of natural ingredients, and the third sketches an overall vision. Fascinated by the relationship between materials and colors, she says she visualizes her creations “like paintings.”​

“A great perfume works like Proust’s madeleine. It has the power to transport you, and the emotions it awakens are uncontrollable and powerful. It is a presence in its own right.”
—Marie Salamagne​

The form of the brief varies from collection to collection. Sometimes it is extremely concrete: for Bois Sikar, Jean-Philippe actually brought Marie a cigar and a bottle of Lagavulin 16 Year Old, a single malt whisky from Islay. Other themes are more abstract: for Nuda Veritas, she was asked to find something that would “add light and purity.” In either case, Marie has freedom over the olfactory direction.​

All the fragrances are unisex, designed to be enjoyed regardless of gender.​

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The Fragrance Lineup

As of 2025, Atelier des Ors’ offering comprises seven collections, each with a clearly defined theme and story.

The Black Collection (Collection Noire)

The brand’s starting point and its largest core collection. These enveloping, sensual, sumptuous fragrances draw inspiration from journeys through the Middle East, ancient cities, and Greek mythology. All five of the original 2015 creations, Rose Omeyyade, Cuir Sacré, Lune Féline, Larmes du Désert, and Aube Rubis, belong to this collection.

Later additions include Bois Sikar, an homage to the founder’s cigars whose name is said to derive from the Mayan word for “to smoke”; Rouge Sarây, evoking an Umayyad caravanserai; and the sensual Lune Féline, centered on Tahitian vanilla. Lune Féline has become synonymous with the brand and enjoys strong support among fragrance enthusiasts. A limited edition was also created for the tenth anniversary.

The White Collection (Collection Blanche)

Introduced in 2018, this collection is a triptych inspired by Gustav Klimt’s mural Beethoven Frieze, painted in 1901. The theme of the search for happiness, echoing Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy,” unfolds in three chapters.​

• Nuda Veritas — Chapter One. A luminous floral expressing the beginning of a spiritual quest.
• Crépuscule des Âmes — Chapter Two. A woody aromatic depicting the duality of the soul.
• Chœur des Anges — Chapter Three. A fruity floral celebrating joy and color.​

The collection took three years to complete, with Marie undertaking a vast number of trials in response to its abstract themes. She reflects that it was “work made possible only by a long-term partnership.”​

The Riviera Collection (Collection Riviera)

Introduced in 2019, this airy collection evokes the golden age of the Côte d’Azur, the French Riviera, from the 1950s to the 1970s. It captures azure seas, vibrant landscapes, and old-school glamour in transparent blue bottles. The collection consists of four fragrances: Riviera Drive, Pomelo Riviera, Riviera Lazuli, and Riviera Sunrise.

The Frivolité Collection (Collection Frivolité)

Conceived after the pandemic lockdowns as a response to an era deprived of social connection, this collection celebrates the joys of celebration and the French art de vivre, the art of living.

For these two creations, the brand partnered with Firmenich’s laboratory in Grasse, using the headspace technology NaturePrint® to develop the first-ever champagne and caviar fragrance ingredients, bespoke and exclusive to Atelier des Ors.​

• Pink Me Up — The sparkling, effervescent joy of champagne.
• Noir by Night — An expression of the creamy, sensual side of caviar.​

The Memory Lane Collection (Collection Memory Lane)

Created in 2024 to mark the brand’s move to Grasse and its arrival at Villa Primerose, this collection explores the power of memory awakened by smell: recollections of the past and memories yet to come.​

“Moving to Villa Primerose prompted me to return to my own memories and those of the house itself, as a witness to the history of perfumery in Grasse.”
—Jean-Philippe Clermont​

• Villa Primerose — A contemporary reinterpretation of rose and leather, the origins of perfumery in Grasse.​
• Blue Madeleine — A fragrance of memories of black tea and madeleine cakes, echoing Proust’s madeleine.​

The Eaux Collection (Collection Eaux)

A light, contemporary collection celebrating color and light. Its imagery evokes kaleidoscopic colors radiating through a transparent prism. Its signature creation, Blanc Polychrome, is a modern-style fragrance at a concentration of 20%.​

The Abstraction Collection (Collection Abstraction)

A collection exploring the boundary between the self-evident and the abstract, with fragrances at extrait concentration. Two creations debuted in 2024: Kawa Karda, depicting the powerful contrasts of coffee, and Cocoa Kimiya, expressing an alchemical fusion of cacao and cardamom.​

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Incidentally…

• The brand’s first partner: The renowned Parisian niche perfumery JOVOY was the first retailer to introduce Atelier des Ors’ creations, on December 23, 2014, the year before the brand’s official launch.​
• “Sikar” is a Mayan word: The Sikar in Bois Sikar means “to smoke” in Mayan. It is said to have been brought back to Europe by the Spanish along with tobacco and, through Spanish, to have become the root of the word “cigar” in various languages.​
• A brief of cigars and whisky: For Bois Sikar’s composition brief, Jean-Philippe simply handed Marie his favorite Lagavulin 16 Year Old, an Islay single malt, and a cigar he enjoyed. Marie has said, “Jean-Philippe knows I am a visual person, so he always brings storyboards,” but on this occasion, the scents themselves were the direct brief.​
• Jean-Philippe’s credo: Asked about his target consumer, he answers, “I do not think in those terms. I create perfumes guided by inspiration and the stories I want to tell. I put creation first, not market logic or statistics.”​
• Grasse and UNESCO: The perfumery skills of Grasse, where the brand is based, were inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2018. Atelier des Ors regards preserving and communicating this heritage as one of its missions and is active as a member of Grasse Expertise.​

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