Ingredient Guide
Iso E Super is a synthetic fragrance material discovered by chemists at IFF in the 1970s. It is a versatile material with an exceptionally multifaceted scent, blends well with other fragrance materials, and makes a fragrance smoother and deeper.
According to Fragrantica’s ingredient article, Halston (Halston Classic), released in 1975, is considered the first perfume to have used Iso E Super. The same article also describes its connection with Carlos Benaïm, while Michael Edwards’s account, based on interviews with people involved, describes Bernard Chant as leading its development, with Max Gavarry contributing. That account distinguishes the material used at the time, Iso Cyclemone E, from the subsequently enhanced Iso E Super. Halston Woman, released in 2009, is a separate release in which Benaïm reinterpreted the earlier fragrance, and should be distinguished from the 1975 perfume. (Ingredient article) (Edwards’s account) (2009 release) What brought Iso E Super particular attention was Fahrenheit in 1988 (Dior, Jean-Louis Sieuzac). This perfume, the first to overdose Iso E Super at 25%, was a great success. It was followed by Lancôme’s Trésor in 1990 (Sophia Grojsman, 18% Iso E Super) and Shiseido’s Féminité du Bois in 1992 (Pierre Bourdon and Christopher Sheldrake, 43% Iso E Super). Alongside these, Fierce (Abercrombie & Fitch), Terre d’Hermès, Kenzo Air, and Incense Kyoto (Comme des Garçons) helped establish a whole area of perfumery around it.
Smooth, woody, and ambery, it has a unique facet that gives a velvet-like sensation. It is used to give fragrances richness and strength.
IFF
For Hermès’s Poivre Samarcande, I tried combining a trace of violet leaf absolute with a large amount of the woody-amber fragrance material Iso E Super. This revealed that this synthetic material also had a pepper-like smell that had not previously been recognized.
Jean-Claude Ellena
What Does It Smell Like in Perfume?
Rather than adding an unmistakable smell of wood, Iso E Super is a synthetic fragrance material that layers a light veil of dry cedar and amber over a composition, making the whole fragrance seem rounder, more expansive, and velvety. It works gently through the top, heart, and base, connecting other scents while adding volume and diffusion. The commercial product consists of several isomers, and an isomer present in a small proportion contributes strongly to its characteristic scent. It is not an extract of natural wood, but a material that quietly changes a fragrance’s overall texture and its presence in the surrounding space.
Choosing Iso E Super Fragrances
When choosing an Iso E Super fragrance, consider its smooth softness and the notes it is paired with, as well as the strength of the woody scent.
- The material itself: Simple fragrances centered on Iso E Super suit those who enjoy a soft woody-amber scent.
- A fresh opening: Lime and pepper add a bright, lively edge to the soft woods.
- Light flowers: Orris and jasmine-like notes add light florals to the woody scent.
Fragrances Featuring Iso E Super
Molecule 01 (Escentric Molecules)
A fragrance built around Iso E Super as its sole fragrance material. It offers a velvety-soft woody scent.
Escentric 01 (Escentric Molecules)
Iso E Super is layered with lime, pink pepper, Hedione, orris, and other notes. Compared with the simple woods of Molecule 01, it also offers citrus, spices, and flowers.
From Iso E Super to Your Next Fragrance
Once you have a sense of the scents you enjoy, open our Fragrance Finder. Choose “Favorite fragrances & notes” on the home screen, search in the “Favorite notes” field, and select an option from the suggestions shown. Choose “Next” to continue. You can start with notes even if you do not yet have a favorite perfume.
